glow plug testing

Can some of you expert cucv guys give me some pointers to make sure my glow plugs are working properly

How many volts should be at the glow plugs?

I have an orange wire that is disconnected the solenoid by the master cylinder I believe it is the glow plug solenoid does any one know how it should go

what is the black box behind the intake how should it work and how does it get tested

where are the glow plug relays

Is there a way to test the glow plugs them self they are new but maybe something else is broken and burned them out

Thank you any other tips would be great I am checking all this because my m1009 will not start cold

Thank you for all your help I am learning about this system project by project and hope I can help others when I get it down pat

All of your questions have been answered in previous threads. Try a search in the cucv forum for what you need to know.

Also, the tech manuals, have all the info you need aswell.

If you cannot find them(and the answers to your questions) then PM me you number, I'll call you and explain it all.

jmmay82 said:

Can some of you expert cucv guys give me some pointers to make sure my glow plugs are working properly

How many volts should be at the glow plugs?

I have an orange wire that is disconnected the solenoid by the master cylinder I believe it is the glow plug solenoid does any one know how it should go

what is the black box behind the intake how should it work and how does it get tested

where are the glow plug relays

Is there a way to test the glow plugs them self they are new but maybe something else is broken and burned them out

Thank you any other tips would be great I am checking all this because my m1009 will not start cold

Thank you for all your help I am learning about this system project by project and hope I can help others when I get it down pat

Click to expand...

First off I am no expert but Ill give it a shot.

Around 12 volts

Red large wire come from the resistor behind the breather. It attaches to one of the large studs on the solenoid. The two large orange wires go to the other large stud on the solenoid. There should be a small pink wire that goes to one of the small studs and a small blue wire that goes to the other small stud. When the ignition is in the run position the solenoid should click. Depending on how the truck is wired you should have 24 volts at the red wire and 12 volts at the orange wire. If the solenoid did not click when the key was turned on try grounding the blue wire with a seperate wire. It should click. That would be the manual glow plug switch that is talked about here so much.

The black box behind the breather has two resistors in it.

The glow plug relay is a mystery to me.

With the key in the run position and a cold truck check to see if you have 12 volts at the glow plug tab. You can test the glow plug with a volt meter by attaching the black lead to a good ground, set to ohms and touch the glow plug tab or spade with the wire off. They should ohm from 0.3 to 1.3 if I remember correctly.

This should get you started. Also check the TM's as doghead stated. There are easy to follow instructions that can be printed.

Simple, remove glowplug, get short wire, spray oil on tip of glow plug, hold plug with pliers against the negative post of your battery, use the wire from the positive post and touch the terminal of the plug, with the plug making good connection, it will smoke the oil in a few seconds. Do not leave the plug on for more than 2 seconds, if no smoke it is bad.

We talked on the phone today. I think he has it all figured out

The fastest way to tese the glow plugs and I think the best way is to disconect them and use a test light . You conect the test light to the 12 volt battery the one next to the steering shaft on the positive side and tuch each glow plug end. Just where cth conector was removed. If the light comes on its a good glow glug if not time to go to the store. no need to remove. If it lights its good move to the next plug .