Fuel Filter Base Fix

Good evening all,
This is my first post on here and I wanted to make it a decent one. I have been reading quite a bit on here and I just recently bought my first two m1009's. This board has been a great source for information. I guess to the point........

One of my new m1009's was missing a few parts. I collected all the parts and went to start it for the first time yeasterday and I noticed it was pouring fuel out around the bottom of the filter. Soooo I went on here and read how the bases are prone to leaking because of the rubber O Ring behind the presure sensor. The fix seems to be either to tap the small hole and put in a plug or to buy a spin on filter base and set it up that way. I didnt want to do that because I would lose the fuel heater so I tried something new and here it is.

I took the base off and went to auto zone with the intention of buying the little plug and tapping the hole, however I decided something different. I took a 35mm Freeze plug and it fit in pretty good at the store. I took it back to the shop and when I went to slide it in I noticed that there is a little ridge in the big hole on the base that prevents it from being tapped right in. So I flipped the freeze plug over and beat it in backwards. After a few good hits with a hammer and using a large impact socket as a punch to distibute the blow, it went right in nice and tight. I fired the truck right up and it does not leak at all.

The Freeze plug cost a whole whopping $.99. I thought if can hold back the water and heat on the engine block it should do a decent job on the filter base.

Next week I will be doing the other base I have for the second truck and try to get it running.

I hope this helps someone else later on.

i wish i knew that befor i spent 77 bucks on ebay for a new one. ( the newer ones did not have the pressure sensor )

Thats why I chose to fix mine, I thought if the new ones do not have it, then why not bypass mine. It was just pure luck that I put a freeze plug in it today. But it worked out good. I was worried about braking the housing hammering on it but I thought worse case would be that I have to buy a new. What could I lose? I will put up pictures next week when I do the other one if any one wants to see it.

You can count me in(I love pics). Interesting fix, well done.

O rings are easy. Just do not get a plain O ring. I have a friend that has an O ring shop. Now people can't just wak in for one O ring. They make them for extreme conditions. But get the size and get one that can handle diesel or bio diesel. I say also Bio diesel because it harder on O rings. Use your local temperature range, add fifty degrees F to the bottom and 100 to the top, this will give you minimum temp range. The preasure is is not high so it is no big deal. depending on you source you may have to but more than one but they are not much and easier to install. Rubber just sucks because it dries out and cracks. If you plug it be sure to add sealant. metal to metal may seal good but metal expands and contracts which can cause leaks. I do not know what the filter base is made of, if they are the same metal it is not too bad. But I also like my air cooled VW'S and they do not use gaskets. It is all metal to metal and seals well as long as you are very careful.

but my new housing is nice.. i should have kept my old one i tossed it

Dragging up this old post because I just did this fix. it has changed my m1009 from a pretty hard cold start to an instant runner, and I have pictures. (larger size on my flickr) I did find the fuel pressure sensor wasn't my only leak. The water/fuel drain on the bottom of the base wasn't sealing at all. Poking the rubber bead at the base of the threads back into position and plumbers-taping the **** out of the plastic screw/valve got it working.

Sweet, I am glad it worked for you. I still havnt done the second base yet. But I should here in a few weeks. I decided to strip the second M1009 and use the parts to keep the other going as well as build a whole new truck with the drivetrane.

3dubs said:

O rings are easy. Just do not get a plain O ring. I have a friend that has an O ring shop.

Click to expand...

Do you know the dash size of the o-rings used on the drain and vent plugs?

[-20 tech manual, section 3-17, item #5]

Thanks

Jim

I heard you can plug the hole with JB Weld, inwhich I am doing today...

I know this is an old post but I fixed my other M1009 last weekend with the freeze plug method and it works great. I put the freeze plug in just like you would on an engine this time. I pressed it in this time using my pipe bender as a press and it just went right in and no leaks. The 35mm freeze plug works like a charm.

I am doing this today. I put the freeze plug in, primed, and it's leaking at the plug. Any suggestions?

Also, what orientation do you put the plug in? Maybe I'm doing it backwards?

Thanks for the tip, I will be looking in to this.

MakersTeleMark said:

I am doing this today. I put the freeze plug in, primed, and it's leaking at the plug. Any suggestions?

Also, what orientation do you put the plug in? Maybe I'm doing it backwards?

Click to expand...

You can just plug the little hole with a sheet metal screw or self tapping bolt slathered in JB weld.

In picture below it is the hole in the center one, or where the red pencil is pointing.

I just could not get the freeze plug to work. Couldn't really get it pressed in enough.

I went ahead and removed the base and tapped the hole. Seems to be working fine, but what a PITB to get to that point fiddling with that plug. It seems to fit, but the one I got just would not go deep enough to provide a perfect seal.

Hopefully this will cure some rough starting issues I have been having.

No offense,but why not just go with a modern spin on filter?

rsh4364 said:

No offense,but why not just go with a modern spin on filter?

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It's on the list someday, but for under a buck for a fix, the old filter setup really seems to be working just fine.

rsh4364 said:

No offense,but why not just go with a modern spin on filter?

Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with changing to spin on filters. But once the leak is solved, the stock system works too.

There is a fuel heater in the stock Stanodyne base, so depending on where you live, one might want to incorporate a fuel heater in your spin on system also. I know some of the guys who have switched to spin on have done this, but most have not.