Steering Column disassembly and Gen2 problems

Searched around to no avail... Anywho... Problem one, i broke my directional signal lever and it's all flimsy now and was wondering how much of a pain it is to replace it with what ever parts are needed. I was looking in the TM-20 (page 451) and it doesn't give a very good description of how to take the column apart. So i was wondering how much of an issue this is, and if anyone could give me some good pointers so i don't end up breaking a lot of things .

2nd. My gen2 light goes off when I'm accelerating and comes back on when i let off the gas and it sits and idles. It use to stay off and can't figure out what the cause of this might be. Both my gen 1 and gen 2 have been recently rebuilt and haven't had an issue. When the gen 2 light goes off, it charges just fine, but when it comes on, it stops charging.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys!

Buy a manual from Autozone etc. . . for the turn signal switch problem, not really that hard to fix, but pulling the steering column apart without the right tools can be a pita. Your probably going to need a new turn signal switch. . .

As for the Gen light issue, could be alot of things, try a search for threads regarding gen light issues.

Have you checked the belts for tightness. Scott

Yup all belts are tight

Hi;
You will need two tools to disassemble your steering column enough to replace the turn signal switch. First, you will need a steering wheel puller. Sometimes the wheel will come off with a firm tug and sometimes not. I have one as I work on Chevys a lot and do get into the steering columns so the $20 or so was not a problem for me to spend on that tool.

The second tool you will need is an upper bearing spring compression tool. That tool is about $15 and is really necessary in order to take the clip out that holds the steering wheel lock plate in place against the upper bearing spring. I will be honest and tell you I have disassembled a column without the spring compressor, but I would rather not do it again.

The procedure is as follows.

Make sure your front wheels are straight. The steering wheel may be indexed or not to go on straight so this is important when you put the column back together.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove the cover over the center of the steering wheel. This has a wire on it and is your horn button. it is either held on with two screws from the back, or else simply snaps into place. Be careful not to break the wire when you remove it from the spade lug on the back of the center section.

Once the center cover is off, push and turn (to the left) the small round housing on the column end of the wire and it will come out of the socket it is like how a light bulb comes out of a socket.

Remove the clip on the steering shaft, and then the nut that is on the steering shaft. Using a puller remove the steering wheel.

Remove the plastic cover that covers the lock ring that your column lock engages with.

You should be looking at the sector plate with a spring holding tension underneath. Using the upper bearing spring compressor, compress the spring until you can get at the lock ring with a couple of small screw drivers or a combination of a small screwdriver and a dental pick. Remove the ring and then carefully ease the tension off of the tool compressing the upper bearing spring and sector plate assembly and when all is loose remove the tool, and the sector plate along with the plastic cam for the signal switch and the spring.

At this point you should be able to access the turn signal switch and lever assembly. Remember to remove the Emergency Flasher button before removing the turn signal switch.

Removing the switch also includes removing the wire harness from inside the column. Some columns are easy to pull the plug through and some are not depending on if the column is a tilt column, or not. In any event, take your time, and you will have to pull the metal lower dash panel below the steering column to gain access the wiring and harness connectors.

In order to route the wires, depending on how the original is routed, you may have to remove the support that holds the column to the dash.

When you are putting this all back together, make sure you do not pinch wires or have any where they can get chafed by the light switch relay rod and the ignition actuator.

The first time you do this you may take a while, but once you become familiar with how this all goes together it can be done in a half hour.

Take your time and if you are not sure, ask questions.

Please feel free to PM me if you need any further help.

I have also dissasembled a gm column without the proper tools. If you have a buddy with strong fingers he can push the sector plate down while you remove the clip with a small pick and screwdriver. When you put it back together get a socket that just fits over the shaft. Use the socket and a hammer to push the clip and plate down at the same time. A steering wheel puller is a must but a harmonic ballancer puller will also work and is usefull for removing pulleys etc. Get the right tools if you can but with some force and some cursing you can get by without them.

Thanks for all the help guys. i took it apart and removed the broken switch, but there weren't any in stock in town so i had to special order it. Put everything back together in the mean time. I will be sure to do a write up (with lotsa pictures) when the parts get shipped to me

Still trying to figure out the Gen 2 problems though. now the light doesn't go off at all when i accelerate. You can see the light go somewhat dim when im giving it gas, but that's it. Checked all the wires and they look fine. Checked through the grounds and what not as well. What's weird is that this alternator was rebuilt 2 weeks ago from a great shop here in town. Could something have failed prematurely?

Thanks for all the help guys, can't say how much i love this site!

Hi;
I am glad you got the column apart and together ok. Gen 2 field voltage is controlled by a relay which should be near the fuse panel inside. I would check to see if the field has voltage available. The ground is controlled by the relay to energize the field with the truck running. Then check and see if the relay is actually providing a ground to activate the field.

Additionally, there is a fusible link in the feed to the field which may be burned out. I would recommend you get a digital volt ohm meter if you do not already have one for troubleshooting this problem. The power for the field is always available, and the ground is controlled to activate and de-activate the alternator.

That is how I read the schematics. You should download the TM for the CUCV from the resources section. I would review the schematic yourself before doing anything.

The one I downloaded for reference is "cucv-20.pdf"
here is the link to the operators manual
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=6

here is the link to the maintanence manual cucv-20
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=8

here is the parts and tools manual cucv-20p
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=27

this is the intermediate maintanence manual
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=10

here is the intermediate parts and tools manual
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=200


Since I wanted to find the link for you for the maintanence manual I thought I might as well give you the links to the other manuals.

The wiring diagram is in the second one of the links I put in my post.

PM if you need help

Thanks rlwm211. The relay was alright but looked pretty crappy, so i replaced it anyways to rule that out. The light is now back to what it was where it would be out for a little bit, and would come back on after about 2 minutes of driving. I will check that wire in the morning, and probably replace it. Still doesn't make much sense, if that fusable link is burnt out and the alternator works for a little bit then the light comes on after about 2 minutes of driving.

edit: 2 minutes, not hours.

You have to rule out the system before you can condemn the alternator.

If you do decide the alternator is not doing as it should you may want to bring the rig over to the Automotive rebuilding shop. They can evaluate the problem easier if it is in the system.

Hope it goes well...

RL

so i cut off the fusable link and soldered in a new wire and connector for the sense wire. Tightened all the belts again to spec. Each battery both have proper voltage. ~12.4 when not charging. The Gen2 light still doesn't goes out and i notice a very slight flicker when the truck is idling. i drove it around and it still doesn't turn off. Gen1 works as it should and goes off right as the slightest amount of throttle is given. The only thing i havn't replaced was the voltage regulator connector on the alternator. Would this be an issue or not. The alternator relay has also been replaced with a new one. ummmmm. I also checked a lot of the wires for continuity and all seems well. Looked around at countless posts to no avail and all the TM's... All i can think now is that the newly rebuilt Gen2 alternator has failed. Anyone else have any other input?

You need to verify that the Alt are working (volts and amps) before tearing the truck apart. Just because it was rebuilt doesnt mean it was a good job.

i think i figured it out. Will do a write up after i do my normal morning drive to work. Thanks for all the help guys

Can't wait to find out what you found!

Took the alt off and had it checked for a couple of hours at the alternator shop. All looks well with it. The things i fixed last night didn't seem to work , so its off to more trouble shooting. Spruced up the diagram in the TM for anyone that stumbles on this and need help with wire colors for gen2 troubleshooting haha.

I have a simple question as to the situation here,

Did you check the voltage at the battery when the truck is running?
What is the voltage?

I would hate to see you chasing your tail if it is a faulty indicator light circuit.

Just my two cents

RL

Yea i checked to voltage on each. the front battery is at about 14.4volts, and the rear battery stays at 12.4volts. These measurements are when the truck is running.

I had similar problems for awhile, Check and clean some of these alt wire connections. The voltage regulator plug/clip/connector/thingy on both of my alts where very dirty. Cleaning these helped me out.

Thanks for the input raiburn. Yea, i actually totally replaced the voltage regulator clip