Safety chains

Well, I did it. I cut the Shark hooks and chains off my trailer. They were too short to reach my truck.

Bad thing is, my quick release are too small to go over the loops the held the chains on... Should have cut the first small chain link, not the link that connects to the loop on the trailer.

of well, good thing the hardware store sells bigger quick release connectors.

Before y'all ask, I rigged extensions between the shark hooks and chains with new chains I had purchased to recover the trailer, but today, one of the hooks unhooked from the chain and was dragging on the pavement.

So off they came.

I borrowed a trailer once to move a pickup, and the one safety chain was a tad bit too short. Once I had weight on the trailer, it became a big problem. I turned a little too sharp and the hook tore the chain holder out the bottom. I welded it back together and painted, and its kinda hard to tell it ever happened.

And always remember to put up your tail gate....

Yeah, with my current hitch set up, my tailgate would be sitting on my hitch. Not a good thing...

I might have to lengthen the new chains a little bit, a link or two, to make them work better for turns.

Pictures.... everyone wants pictures... opcorn:

hwcurtice said:

yeah, with my current hitch set up, my tailgate would be sitting on my hitch. Not a good thing...

I might have to lengthen the new chains a little bit, a link or two, to make them work better for turns. So, more links? Or just right for length?

Pictures.... Everyone wants pictures... opcorn:

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That dose not look too bad. That locking hitch pin could be a problem in the winter though. Water gets in them and freezes and breaks the locks. Been there done that.

hwcurtice said:

View attachment 318303

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So, what is the WLL on those quicklinks? Hopefully at least at high as the GVW rating of the trailer?

Aaron Z

I think they are like 500#s each,if they are the bigger ones, cant tell from pic... I have used them on a seadoo trailer, but would suggest something a little beefier ...

Those were like 200 lbs. The quick connects I ended having to get weigh in at 2k each. Now the chain I have, the links aren't big enough, so it's back to the store for bigger link chain. I'm also going to get beefier quick links, like what you see.

I got this set up for recovery only as I wasn't sure if the stock chains were going to be long enough. I didn't have to use them until I had the current hitch set up made and the trailer sat further back.

The picture shown is for display only for length.

So, part of my getting bigger link chain is stopping by the tire store too and seeing about short tires that will fit the rims, but still have the weight bearing.

Agree with emr! I use 5900 pound rated chains and components on the hitch I built. But then I did build it to pull M105 trailers, not M101's!

I don't like the tow of terror hitches pictured.
the safety chains should be secured to the loops on the truck not the draw bar.
The hitch pin breaks there is nothing to catch it and it is headed directly into the minivan in the next lane.

They are called SAFETY CHAINS and are meant to catch the tongue before it hits the pavement flips and kills you!

I went with safety cables that coil back when used. They don't limit movement don't droop
are heavy load rated and when crossed will hold the trailer tongue up.

I have mine connected to the tow rings on my truck. Too many other point of failure otherwise.

I was thinking of the cable thing, but I like the chain. When I get this all done I'll post what it looks like.

Granted, with shorter tires, I may be able to use a shorter hitch plate too. That would be great. Put the tongue more on a level with the receiver than it is now.