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I had this new 20,000 lb. winch and the hydraulic pump and was ready to install it, but it was too much work to build the hydraulic system so i sold that winch and bought the warn 18,000 lb.
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winch installs
- Thread starter Coffey1
- Start date
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I am in agreement on this. Hydraulics are already in place. Costs would probably be comparable between the 2. With hydraulics I get less heat, no strain on the charging system and it can work all day. I sacrifice the massive power of the Series 18 though. With that said, if I put all my eggs in one basket and suffer a hydraulic failure, I'm dead in the water. The Series 18 is likely going to win out.
booger
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I used a 20k on the rear powered off of the transfer case. Fits nicely between the frame rails and underneath the bed.
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- 3,871
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- Gray Court SC
That's a big booger. Nice job !
bchauvette
New member
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- Easley SC USA, 29640
You may want to check to see how the BATT. switch functions. The cut off switch on the MOG disconnects the ground. If your using chassis ground for the winch all the current goes through the switch. It may not be designed to take the winch current load. I installed a battery cut off switch from the chassis to the batt ground terminal to take the winch current load. I just need to remember to turn it on when using the winch. It also gives me a plan"B" if I loose that stupid key.
- 3,871
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- Gray Court SC
Bump
- 1,425
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- Winter Haven, florida
Action pic's. After i got out i used the winch to pull out the 5 ton.
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Dmaxcc6spd
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- 6
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- KY
Where can someone acquire one of these winches?
- 1,425
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- 48
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- Winter Haven, florida
I max. out my warn 18,000 lbs. winch tonight, single line and with a snatch block. My buddys were way out in the swamp, where they should have not been. Three pickup trucks, the first i pulled out with my truck, the second with single line winch. The third was the worst, single line with 60' heavy 65,000 lbs. rope a 40' 40,000 lbs. strap a 25' 40,000 lbs. strap a 27' 27,000 lbs. strap. I got him closer and had to go to the scatch block, through the muck and small trees but i got them out, in the dark. Wish a had some pics.
- 2,811
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- Mt. Eden, KY
Are you interested in the pto driven or hydraulic ? have some good used hyd available.
- 1,425
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- Winter Haven, florida
A PTO 10,000 garwood never would have made this recovery, it has a shear pin. Yes i reached max. on the 24 volt winch but it did not quit.
Great thread! Awesome work by all.
I grabbed a couple of these winches recently and I found a little bit of
documentation / parts / exploded views for these Series 18 winches.
If anyone has any proper sized fairleads I might need a couple of them.
CLICK HERE linking to the 911 on the Series 18
I grabbed a couple of these winches recently and I found a little bit of
documentation / parts / exploded views for these Series 18 winches.
If anyone has any proper sized fairleads I might need a couple of them.
CLICK HERE linking to the 911 on the Series 18
roalcoal
Member
- 150
- 1
- 18
- Location
- poplarville ms
In the process of installing mine
roalcoal
Member
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- 18
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- poplarville ms
sorry about the extra pics. didnt work like i had planed
- 3,871
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- Gray Court SC
Looking good
- 1,450
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- Gray, GA
I mounted my winch this weekend. I still have to do the wiring and make the fairlead bracket for the top of the bumper. I'll be going to a 4 civilian battery setup and the winch will be plug-n-play via a slave port mounted on the square box below the headlight. I had to do my mount a little different than most due to the new bumper and other additions in the future. My mount also serves as reinforcement for the frame extensions to help with the weight of the bumper.
- 1,450
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- Gray, GA
I've got some power to it now although it's not hardwired yet. I made a small power panel for the slave port and remote port to get me by until I can get 2 more batteries, ~25' of 4/0 cable and a main disconnect together. This will probably be after Christmas because of...well...the whole Christmas thing. Now I can pretension the cable and use it if the need arises. I've gotten by without one for this long but it's usable now if I need it.
The bracket is aluminum and was probably an antenna or radio mount. I pick up all those premade brackets you see in surplus lots for cheap just for this type of thing. The winch leads are connected directly to the slave port. My 20' slave cable completes the circuit. This is definantly temporary and will be removed when I get the rest of the stuff together.
I also moved the tensioner from the back to the top...and after looking at the pictures am seeing that I put it on backwards, sigh. This gave me the room I needed to open the hood.
I'll mention something to check if you have one of these winches. My cable was spooled backwards, and yes, there is a drum rotation sticker that needs to be heeded in case yours is missing or painted over. Not only that, they inserted the cable end into the drum and secured it with the screw but doubled it back over itself to spool the drum. When I got down to the last layer of cable when I was pretensioning, this made a major bird's nest as you can imagine. After pulling the whole drum and disconnecting the cable, I had to cut about 8" off the end that had been damaged. This had to have been done at the BAE plant where the winch came from. Since it came off a partially assembled MRAP, it's never been used. I assume they would test it after installation at the factory though. Neither here nor there really but something to check before you ruin the cable or winch.
The bracket is aluminum and was probably an antenna or radio mount. I pick up all those premade brackets you see in surplus lots for cheap just for this type of thing. The winch leads are connected directly to the slave port. My 20' slave cable completes the circuit. This is definantly temporary and will be removed when I get the rest of the stuff together.
I also moved the tensioner from the back to the top...and after looking at the pictures am seeing that I put it on backwards, sigh. This gave me the room I needed to open the hood.
I'll mention something to check if you have one of these winches. My cable was spooled backwards, and yes, there is a drum rotation sticker that needs to be heeded in case yours is missing or painted over. Not only that, they inserted the cable end into the drum and secured it with the screw but doubled it back over itself to spool the drum. When I got down to the last layer of cable when I was pretensioning, this made a major bird's nest as you can imagine. After pulling the whole drum and disconnecting the cable, I had to cut about 8" off the end that had been damaged. This had to have been done at the BAE plant where the winch came from. Since it came off a partially assembled MRAP, it's never been used. I assume they would test it after installation at the factory though. Neither here nor there really but something to check before you ruin the cable or winch.
dilligaf13
Active member
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- south, florida
Santa (my wife) was nice enough to stuff one of the 18k warn winches into my Christmas stocking. My question is this, these appear to use M12 bolts, for mounting. Did you guys use 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 bolts for mounting your winches? Silly me, I don't deal with high strength metric bolts on my American made trucks very often.... Thanks
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- Spartanburg,SC
Go with whichever you like. I highly doubt that you will shear off eight off even the 8.8's.
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- Gray, GA
The original bolts they used when mounting them on the MRAPs were M12 - 10.9 flange head bolts. As Andy said though, I don't see you shearing a lower grade if you can't find 10.9s.
Something to note after install though...
Pay attention to the label on the side of the case for spooling direction. The overload protection only works one way, if equipped. Mine was spooled backwards, which would've left me unprotected from overloads.