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m1008 voltage gauge in the yellow on start, is that normal?

Barrman

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Do you mean right after the engine fires and for about 10-40 seconds after depending on outside temperatures?

Yes, that is normal. The glow plugs are still glowing.
 

Barrman

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The red/yellow/green/red military voltage gauge is really pretty neat. I can't remember which TM has this listed out, but one of them for one of my trucks does. Pretty much, here is what the colors mean.

Low red= below 18 volts

yellow=18-25 volts

green=25.2-30 volts with the little tick in the green at 28.8 volts.

upper red = above 30 volts.

Just turning the key on with good batteries should be in the upper yellow because 25.2 is what two fully charged batteries are supposed to be. This is basically what the yellow/green line shows. The glow plugs pull a lot and will drop the gauge down to mid yellow normally.
 

maxpanic

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Ok, makes sense. Thanks.

By the way, do you happen to know what it means when the Gen 2 light flashs but not at full brightness when driving at 35+ mph?
 

Warthog

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Ok, makes sense. Thanks.

By the way, do you happen to know what it means when the Gen 2 light flashs but not at full brightness when driving at 35+ mph?

Time for a rebuild or a belt is slipping
 
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maxpanic

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Gen 2 light on decelerating m1008

I just got this truck from the barstow maraine base on California in March. Upone recieving it I checked all the fluids and they looked great so I left them. So I just was doing some maintenance on my m1008 yesterday and I think I caused a problem. I added some oil as the oil level was low, 15w40 to whatever the military uses. Is this a bad idea?

Then I also noticed a flicker on gen 2, I assumed this is the passanger side alternator light so I checked its belt. It was a little loose so I replaced it with a new one. I am wondering if I made it too tight.

Last night when I did these changes and took it for a test drive it ran great. Then this morning on the way to church it started to act weird. When I decelerate or take my foot off of the accelerator it feels like it starts to die, the gen 2 light comes on and then the engine picks up a little to try and recover. So should I losen the belt and see if the problem goes away? or change the oil? I am guessing the oil should probably be changed but is not the cause of my problem. I think I just have tightened the belt too much and will losen it up since I used a long piece of barstock to pry the alternator away and tighten the belt and it was hot and this morning its cold and shrunk down a little I think. Is there a better way to install these belts? Or should I adjust the injection of the diesel or increase the idle so that it doesn't do that?
 

Barrman

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If the engine stumbles, it can only be caused by lack of fuel. Now, that could mean a fuel system leak or the pink wire at the top of the IP bieng loose and bouncing around. If those two check out, then you are left with a bad IP getting worse.

I just put a new IP on a truck that would idle and run down the road great. Until you let it coast. Then it wouldn't respond to the throttle for about 5 seconds. Then all good again until it coasted. That truck could also be held just above idle, blip the throttle and it would stumble or die depending on what rpm the throttle blip was started at. IP.

I would suggest you check all the mount bolts for the alternators, the screw in and plug in wires on the alternators as well. You added the proper oil and changing a belt should not lead to charging troubles. I think you have multiple things going on and your work just happened to be at the same time.
 

maxpanic

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isolated ground alternator rebuild kit source?

What are good sources for getting alternator rebuild kits for the passenger side (isolated ground) alternator? Are they available from autozone?

Any advice for a first time alternator rebuilder?
 

Warthog

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Not available at the local parts houses. Maybe at a local rebuilder.

The alternator is a 27SI Type 100 alternator. It does have a few extra pieces to make it an isolated ground unit.

You can get you parts from here. I have used them on may occassions. They used to be callled Spring Hill Auto Electric.

High output Alternators - Alternator Parts - Starter Parts - Repair Kits - DELCO 27SI HEAVY DUTY REPAIR KIT

The TM 9-2320-289-34 manual has a step-by-step procedure to rebuild the unit. Follow the steps, take a picture of each step, and you shouldn't have any issues.

Just take your time with the first rebuild.

And what ever you do, don't hammer on the case without any backing support when removing the bearings. If you don't have support you WILL break the housing.

Also BARRMAN posted a great thread on rebuilding and testing the alternator.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html
 
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doghead

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Maxpanic, I merged the 3 threads you have started that all are about the same issue(continuing). Please do not start a new thread for the same(related) issues.

When you do this, nobody knows what other problems you have had or fixed, or information you have been given already. It wastes peoples time and does not help you as well as if you continue with a thread you already stated all the info in.

Also, please try searching before posting.
 

maxpanic

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Sorry Doghead, i was trying to make things simpler but if this is the way it should go I am happy to oblige.

Thanks Warthog, I will be following your advice as I proceed with the rebuild.
 

doghead

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No apology needed, I'm just trying to help you get the best results by using the website efficiently..
 

maxpanic

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One more odd thing that may mean something but puzzles me to no end.

My Gen 2 light only flashes in the morning on the way to work. in the after noon and evening it doesn't flash at all.

So when its not warmed up it seems to be unhappy. Any ideas on this?
 

doghead

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Glow plugs cycling?
 

maxpanic

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Nope, the glow plug light goes on at start up and shuts off, then I turn on the truck. then in the morning the gen 2 light flashes all the way to work.
 
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