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First '52 XM211

hendersond

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Tore the top off and float looked low so I raised it up. did not change anything. Called maccus. He told me about the shim on the top. I see .090 spamped on it. now I noticed there is no imprinting from the surfaces on the gasket so I know this is a source of a leak. This explaines some of the silicone in this part. I'm going to re-seat everything and set the top with a big hammer after I tighten it up.
 

hendersond

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Maccus led me down the right path. The new cork airhorn gasket is thicker. Tapping on the housing and tightening the screws made an improvement. I could get the choke off 50% now. I see where the problem is. I took the cork gasket out and replaced it with a silicone bead. I know it is not right, but It runs great now. The silicone will work to move it around the yard. I will have to research the correst fix later this week.
First pic is of the old well imprinted gasket. The new one never had a mark on it and was fuel soaked.
 

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hendersond

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I thought about that, but I want to see what the manual shows first. It runs and I'm on to the brakes now. Master cylinder came today. It is installed, but not bled yet. Took the exhaust pipe off the manifold too. Gonna bend some pipe Wed morning! Manifold may come off for repair tonight.
 

Gunfreak25

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I wonder if you couldn't fabricate up a header for the thing. You'd never have to deal with a cracked manifold again. Ever find out what causes this on all the GMC's? I'd heard it was the timing running too retarded.
 

hndrsonj

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I wonder if you couldn't fabricate up a header for the thing. You'd never have to deal with a cracked manifold again. Ever find out what causes this on all the GMC's? I'd heard it was the timing running too retarded.

My gut feeling is like the gasser M35s. Most I've seen have the exhaust out the back with little support which puts it all on the manifold flange. Just a theory.
 

hendersond

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Add in the fact the exhaust crosses over to the passenger side and a flexible pipe is downstream of the muffler, below the stack. If the engine moves a little from torque, the movement is multiplied further you get from the center line of the truck. The mount holding the muffler is a good one. I suspect it is limiting and may contribute to the stress. Mario G. Has a exhaust bender. We looked at it today, Thurs we are bending. I'm going to run it to the rear for now. If I can get the grinder in there I'm gonna fix the manifold.
 

hilber

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awesome

Great Job!

I am new here and have accumulated a couple mv's already.

There are some really talented indivduals on here. I have been reading the post for hours on end and it is amazing what I am seeing and learning.
 

nattieleather

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Cleveland, OH
There are two types of GMC 302 motors. Those that have a manifold leak and those that will have a manifold leak. When I had my M211 (1995-1999) the exhust manifold was the bain of my ownership. That caused me more heart ache than could be imangined. Many a collector told me that "someone makes a header for that motor cause guys use to drag race that motor in the 60's" but I never found that someone.... Maybe because people haven't hot rodded that motor since the 60s? I had one guy tell me that every spring he changed his manifold gaskets whether it needed it or not. :lol:

If you can make a header for your motor make five or six of them I'm sure you'll have no problem selling them to other GMC owners.
 

135gmc

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Check the stroke on your carb's accelerator pump - these carbs were also used for the M59, and were delivered with maximum accelerator pump stroke. My 135 stumbled at stop signs with a new carb until I found out about the difference in pump strokes. For a 135/211, set the plunger adjustment in the middle hole
 

135gmc

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If you are thinking about headers, think about a different muffler as well. The GMC mufflers don't exist anymore. A friend of mine wound up cutting and welding the closest commercial muffler he could find for his GMC.
 

hendersond

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I had some "custom temporary" exhaust bent last week. took an 8' section of 2.5" and bent a 90 and added a $20 turbo muffler. welded the flange back on the manifold end.. muffler sits next to the transfer case. Works for moving it around the yard. I plan on grinding the old welds off the manifold and starting over.

I priced a manifold at $250. Won't spend over $100

Carb is working excellent! It hardly uses any gas now.
 

hendersond

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Galesville, WI
Trying to complete the body work and paint by Wednesday. Started sanding on the hood and found these numbers. I don't know what they are but interested if any one knows. Would like to know some of the history.

Got the first 2 coats of primer on. have to flip the doors and do the outside Friday.

That should be everything except the hardtop and the triangular shape panel that sits between the Right fender and hood. I cannot imagine what was mounted to that little panel, but it hooked something and was destroyed.
 

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Gunfreak25

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That is your trucks REGISTRATION number, it stays with the vehicle throughout it's entire service life. It is not to be confused with the VIN number which is stamped onto the frame. Have you posted your trucks information in Carnac's VIN thread? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members-rides/62871-2011-vin-info-thread.html

To save you some searching, i've already found the NSN for your vehicle.

2320-00-834-4508 Truck, Cargo 2 1/2 Ton.
 

hendersond

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Galesville, WI
Ha! Hood and doors are done. Had problems with MY painting. Way too cold the first time and paint ran. Too much volume for the temperature and the paint ran the second time. Blew chunks from my never been correctly cleaned gun the third time. I've been living in the 80's with my old sharpe 775 suction spray guns.
I friend took me to Harbor Freight with a coupon for a $10 gravity spray gun. That baby is sweet! I picked up a bunch of extra disposable paint cups and even some strainers. I put some laquer in a katsup type bottle for cleaning the gun (no excuses now). I think I will go back with a $50 and buy 5 more and stockpile them. Every time I find something I like the price goes up or they change it.
 

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hendersond

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Any suggestions for that to use under the hinges. I'm thinking tar paper or impregnated builders felt so it won't get saturated with water?????
 

hendersond

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I'm referring to what looked like gasket material between the hinges and hood, hinge and cowel, hinge and door etc. It was stuck tight to the hinge itself. It was cut to the shape of the hinge mating surface and prevented water from getting betweeen the mating surfaces. Looked like gasket material.
 
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