Recent content by 1088logtruck

Got the gauges in and wired. Wired up a manual switch for the trans cooler fans and a separate 30a relay fuse and switch to energize accessory power. Also anyone wanting to run regular sized switches I was able to find some adapter plates that work well. I guess they are for a polaris rzr but...

Dirtlegal.com can do it as well

Sorry had it backwards https://www.llctlc.com/

The mount for the air over hydraulic pump that I have mounted to the front of the air lift tube that the exhaust is ran through.

It's probably only 1 inch off it now so I'm thinking 4 inches is probably good. And going to throw some heat tape around the pump

Well I did turn the fuel screw 1/4 turn or so and advance timing a touch and the Westgate line is pinched. I've seen this setup work really well and give a little pep to a 3116 in a gmc my buddy had. I am putting pyro boost and trans gauges as a percaution. As this is a log truck it'll see...

Ya that's exactly what I did just capped the air lift tube off toward the pass side by putting a plate in thru the hole I cut to run the exhaust into the air lift tube. And moved lots of hoses and wires to avoid the heat. I still have to cut my mount for the hyd pump off and move that away from...

Well I did fry the light switch but I wanted to rewire that to a regular rocker switch so I did that and then found my mistake and rewired the brake controller signal from k6 to k10 and now it's all good.

Ya I see what you mean about the precleaner design and it really shouldn't be a problem. Our chipper has a 8.3 Cummins and has a filter half the size and is in the dustiest environment any of my equipment will see and it needs to be cleaned often but that's normal. They really built thses things...

I just thought I'd share some of the progress I've made on this project. Another more to go. But just reorganizing the stuff behind the cab took a ton of time. I'm at week 4 of a 25week wait on the pto I ordered so plenty of time left to finish. I also bought a 25ft 20 ton tag...

I got it....but ya ik px 15 is the connector. I meant the k wire on it was shorted. But it ended up being that I had the trailer plug wired wrong and the brake wire was grounded in the trailer plug. It's all fixed again and I pulled 12v signal for the brake controller off of the output on k10...

Also of the 2 output wire from relay k6 one has short to ground the other is open. If I remove the grounded wire it won't blow a fuse but still no brake lights. The px15 k wire is short to ground.

Ya main light switch was bad you were right but I bypassed it to a regular toggle....now I have power at 2 of the brake switch terminals again but as soon as I hit the brakes it blows cb 70 and cb76 and shuts off....also noticed the lowest of the three 4 pole diodes on the panel melted a little...

I'd go with Montana then if VT is being like that. Go to tlcllc.com and it's real easy. I di have to have it "inspected" as part of the process but by a local to me police officer...just call the non emergency line and they will have someone come out.

Basically now when the trucks master switch is on or it's running it'll stay running till you turn the lights on then it'll blow cb70 and shut off.