Recent content by adf5565

Thanks, if at all possible I am trying not to get a new radiator as mine is 1 year old but it is always good to have a backup plan. It looks like the champion radiators don't have the transmission cooler though? It says they do but at least from the picture it shows the ports only on the right...

Well sadly the story gets even worse now. Somehow the pressure tester must’ve screwed up the fill neck on the radiator so now I’m leaking antifreeze past the cap each time I shut the motor off when it’s up to temp. The cap itself doesn’t seem damaged so I’m guessing it’s with the neck itself...

I purchased/installed an aluminum Liland Global 850AA3R radiator from rock auto last year for my M1008. I noticed yesterday that the depth of the filler neck on the radiator cap is more than the OEM radiator. I believe OEM is .75", I haven't measured this yet to be exact but it is probably...

Did you have success with the repair? How did the MLS gaskets work?

Finally put on new rims and tires. Black rock 942688042 and Mastercraft Courser CXT 285 75 r16. I think it looks so much better. Also removing the load sensing valve made a huge difference. Stops very nicely now.

Granted I have a 6.5 so my injectors are at a different angle, but I picked up a 6.5 manifold heat shield which keeps everything tucked against the valve cover and away from the manifold. I got it off ebay. You could also try swapping injectors 6 and 8 (or any others for that matter) and see...

I fit 2 group size 65 batteries on the front tray. With a new fender liner I haven’t had issues, I’ve even stood on the battery tray and it didn’t seem to move. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-m1008-build.207156/post-2533852

Hope these help as well. Out of the 6.2 diesel service manual.

Before you go through the trouble of installing another gauge I’d buy something like this to test while the vehicle is stationary. Especially if you swapped the sender and the light still comes on you may have motor wear issues that need to be resolved before you get too far into things. I’d...

I got my tank and sender from rock auto but I’m sure LMC is fine too

I believe it was 1/4 npt but I don’t remember exactly. Could be 3/8. You can get an adapter from that to whatever your mechanical gauge needs. I’d guess that would be 1/8 npt.

Agreed, and this should help with the plug removal. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/oil-plug-above-filter-removal.214276/

I was able to finish the diff cover install. The Yukon covers are beefy and look great but they don’t come with any provisions for reinstalling the brake line bracket off the rear axle. I ended up getting 3/4” bushings (1” and .5” long) and then machining .030” off so they fit into the cover...

My only other suggestion would be to pull the 2 motor mount bolts and lift the front of the motor up a couple inches so you have better access to the manifold bolts. This could be a bit of a pain though so might be easier to just pull the injectors/glow plugs to apply heat. I'd advise removing...

My vote would be if you have the funds either get it rebuilt or exchange it as a core for a rebuilt one. Since it’s already out of the truck might as well make sure it’s fully good to go and then you won’t have to worry about it.