Recent content by Anvil Motorworks

Had something very similar happen to me with their LT shorty headers. Bought a spare set of vband flanges to so I could have the exhaust turn down immediately but the flanges didn’t match to what was on the header. Pretty lame that the header doesn’t use the newer stepped flanges.

Let me take a guess, speed engineering headers?

Truck is really coming together nicely. I was about to offer you my factory shroud extensions but clearly had no problem fabricating your own. Curious did the LS engine placement allow for you to keep the 4l80 in the same factory position?

If you still need to find hoses like reducers and reducing elbows and such, HPS has a good catalogue of parts to pick from. Below is a pic of the reducing elbow I used to connect my water pump to the custom coolant pipe I made. I’m running an electric fan so I definitely have more clearance but...

Universal headers for your LS will work just fine and I would even bet the factory manifolds will work too. It’ll be tight on the passenger side next to the frame rail but it’s doable even with 2.5” exhaust tubing. As for the coolant hoses I had planned to manufacture hard pipes for the LT...

Look into shorty headers. Vaportrail and I have a LT swap using shorty headers as the drop is better. LS headers are different at the flange so make sure you get LS specific shorty headers.

Technically you don’t have to mount them since they will be clamped between the body and fuel tank. However if it were me I’d either attach them to the tank or drill a couple of holes so that you can use a screw to go into the body. You can recess the screw head by just drilling a second hole...

You could try using a LS to SBC adapter plate mounted to the factory diesel engine mounts. I believe the 6.2 and 6.5 have the same three mounting hole position as a traditional SBC. I haven’t done a LS swap only a LT swap so I’m just throwing some ideas out there. I’m personally not a big fan of...

Nope you have the winch front bumper so you should be able to use the front brackets which will lift the hood up in place of having to do spacers. Keep in mind if the winch plate you have mounts to the out hood brackets it will lift the winch bumper as well. Also if you plan to use the winch...

It’s for the A Pillar. You can’t replace the mounts there since they are welded so you have to use blocks with longer bolts. Also need to be mindful of what front bumper you have because if it’s the standard bumper with the three holes you can’t use the new front brackets, must use hood spacers...

LS is definitely a cheaper alternative swap as you can easily adapt the factory mounts to an adapter plate and be good. If using a 4l80e, even easier as the linkage and all would be the same as well. You’d only really need to sort the fuel and cooling system. I decided to go with a little more...

I would use a swivel neck then modify the factory lower coolant pipe. Here’s a pic of my setup for an LT engine. I did away with worm style clamps and switched to tension clamps for all my coolant lines.

Spacers are definitely a cheap option but realistically it will cost you more than $100. You’ll need to source longer grade 8 bolts for all body mount locations and you’ll also need hardware for the hood lift. Tank strap can be extended if you can weld but if not you’ll need to source, which btw...

The 6.6 L8T is a great engine but it’ll come with with the 8 or 10 speed trans. Of course you can always adapt a 6l80 as it will bolt right up. I built engine and trans mounts for the LT engine platform as I have a built L86 with a built 8l90 adapted to the np242. I’ve spent a lot of time making...

We manufacture body lifts for both H1 and Humvee applications, even REVs. I will say that there are a few variables to consider when looking at these kits. For instance if you are using the factory style standard bumper with the three holes vs a winch plate you’ll need different brackets or...