Recent content by BeStihl

I’ll let you know how it goes after this winter. I put a top made from aluminum over the barrel to keep debris and direct sunlight off as much as possible. I’ve read they hold up for a few years and tend to soften with diesel but others say it’s totally fine so I’m not 100% certain how it’s...

I use ULINE barrels I get from work they transfer oil products to my factory in, made of HDPE which has handled diesel for me so far. They have a 2” NPS fitting that fits the military bung that will directly connect to the aux hose. They also have a 2” Buttress thread bung for filling. Then on...

Hopefully S1 is dirty causing his voltage drop (from 25V to 20V)which could possibly be letting K16 drop out during Start which would also stop current from reaching K2 through K16 NO contact. High Impedance volt meters sometimes lie and make you think there is 20 when it could be 5, know what...

Incorrect, K16 gets power in RUN from S1-3, & in START from S1-3 & S1-7. I think as GuyFang suggested you need to start at S1 and trace power in the RUN & START circuits, ie. S1-3 & S1-7. Maybe this color coded schematic will help, good luck.

I’m pretty sure S1 pins 3 & 7 have to be hot to start. S1-3 should send voltage through a NC contact of K12 to K16 coil in RUN it’s grounded through S14 NC contact, START should allow voltage from S1 pin 7 to reach the starter solenoid through the NO switch of K16 after it closes. You said...

Maybe check the solder joints on the R12, might get lucky. Chase the resistance from 166 to R-12 & from there to P6/J6, maybe a wire is broken. JMO

Interested in your findings, these guys will have you on your way. Just yesterday I tested the K8 on my 803 to verify O/L & S/C by using the method in the manual. It has you disconnect exciter field positive #6 of A1 which makes the generator produce a small voltage (14.5V L-N & 25V L-L in my...

Installed a manual oil pressure gauge today to assure the reading at the electrical gauge was correct. The set gauge shows a little over 30psi when running no matter the load or temperature so I was curious. Thankfully after the install I got the same reading which makes me feel more...

10-4, I appreciate the insight and I will do as advised. I was just making sure I wasn’t “leaving anything on the table” so to speak, if she will pull 50A then I’ll shed my HW heater while running other loads in case it cycles on. Thanks again for the time and expertise.

Thanks for the time and detail of your response. Just to clarify I am using the house GRod with 6ga/4 from Genny to transfer switch, the VR has a 3A time delay fuse & MOV, 61.5 no-load Hz. The load I was attempting to pull was a resistive one for the most part, A/C - 12A HW heater - 20A Clothes...

Ok I have managed to put over 100 hours on this unit after fluid and filter changes. I have been happy with the results so far but am having some trouble getting it to put out over 50A, I know that should be really close to max continuous load for this set but I have a few questions. I only...

I replaced a missing gauge on my 803 with this exact model. That is exactly where it registers on my unit when up to temperature. I wondered if this was a false reading also and took measurements from the sender area and I get 200 with a fluke meter with a thermocouple. I was told by the seller...

I must apologize for not taking your word on this account. I ran my set tonight with an imbalance of 31A-L1 & 21A-L3and the PRC read 50% which would be about 25A on each leg, then I dropped the 120V load and monitored the set again it was reading 40% on the PRC with actual draw of 21A on both...

If you parallel a set, does that count as 1, 😁

120/240v is not a series circuit, it is a parallel/series circuit, the 240v only circuit is series and that statement above is true but when you add a neutral you have an alternative path for current to travel and with an imbalance that is when you get current on the Neutral. Ex. 40A on Leg 3 &...