Recent content by Bushwacka

Will 7.50X16 tires fit on a MB/GPW? I suspect that on turns or with a sagging suspension they would rub the wheelwell/fender Anyone tried to mount these and run them?

I cleaned and tightened the grounding cable that leads to the genny frame then to the M116 trailer. Unsure if this one is attached to the control box on the other end. Will look tonight. Thanks

Guys, I checked the fuel solinoid plunger, and it appears to fully opening. This appears to be where the loud "thunk" orginates when I turn the master switch to start. Looked at the TM for the control panel connections feeding 24v to the starter, but could not locate the source wire . All...

The solinoid is opening and closing. It make a loud "clunk" when the start switch is turned. However, I cannot yet say if it is opening fully. Will check that. Same time I will check out the TM on location of "K1 ( 24v to starter). Upon trying to restart yesterday (again after cking the...

All, I completed the tests and still cannot get a start. The plug I jumped with a U shaped wire( after confirming the correct 2 pin terminals). The breaker points were closed. I went back and ckecked the copper cooper strip and it is straight and clean as it is new. So I have a non start...

Jamawieb, I'll inspect the copper strip to ensure it is straight. I replaced the old one as the contact switch base was cracked where the screw held it attached. If the copper strip is straight, and the unit will start with the "U" wire insert into the cannon plug, then I may have a problem...

CUAD4U Thanks for the insight and understanding. I'll try it and not stress the starter. If it starts as you noted, the problem is in my lockout switch.

Have a MEP002 that will not start until I turn the adjustment screw on the starter lockout switch. Have already replaced the starter, batt, cables and lockout switch. Referred to p 4-32 of TM5-6115-584-12 to set gap at 040 but unable to set adjustment screw at 040 with genny running-too much...

Guys, I re-tested the frequency at the convenience outlet after again validating the accuracy of the Kill A Watt Meter. The engine is running at high RPMs and at a frequency reading on the Kill A Watt meter as 94-97. The frequency gauge on the gen set reads at 53-55. When I reduce the RPMs...

Guys, Finally managed to get one pict uploaded. Engine is not running in pict. The tension spring corkscrew adjustment is about in the middle of the corkscrew rod. Moving the spring adjustment did indeed lower my RPMs when engine started, but after 1 minute the RPMs increased automatically...

My error in describing the problem. The linkage I am pushing down while engine is running is not the throttle control cable, rather it is where the arm comes up from the grooved rod that the spring tension spring attaches to. The rod and linkage that then connects to the fuel injector pump is...

I will check/adjust the cable adjustment to be sure the lever is as far to the right as possible.. Last check, when I pushed the throttle cable linkage down,( when running) it is under spring tension and RPMs are reduced. However when I let go, it returns back to the upward position and...

Guys, I rechecked the Kill-A Watt meter on house current ect to verify readings. All functions appeared ok. Started Mep-002 and used convienance 120 outlet to measure. Let genny run for 5 minutes and here are results on Kill A Watt meter: 119 v at 95.2 hz and 1.00 PF. Engine at high RPM...

I too am confused by the 102 hz, as I understand the RPMs basically determine the Hz. I am certain I had the 117 volts reading correct, so will go back and check the Kill A Watt functions and re-read the Hz. As you note, perhaps I did not toggle between functions......... Engine sounds like...

Guys, I put the Kill A Watt meter on the convienance outlet. It reflects 117v at a 102 hz. When I adjust the voltage knob to increase the voltage to 120v the Kill A Watt meter reads 98-99hz. Does this sound like a bad transducer? Where do I go from here? Thanks again.