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Just wanted to add my experience... my truck was showing speedometer fast. Had the newer 80mph. It was off by 5-10mph depending on actual speed. Swapped to a 41 tooth gear and it is perfect now. Bother were red, so going by color didn't seem to matter. If I were to overlay a 60mph speedometer on...
I sure left this thread dead in the water, just like the project!
Ended up selling it. It was picked up about a week ago. Will make a final video to wrap things up on the YouTube channel. I'm not sure if the new owner is a member here but I'd guess they are as they have other military vehicles...
For anyone who finds this down the road, I carried on with this at this thread;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/a-very-odd-trans-light-issue.223388/
Got to finishing some editing. Split it into two parts so it was so long. Even though it ultimately died, I still wanted to follow through with it. Someone will learn something along the way. If not, get entertained by my failures!
Bunch of the parts have already been sold/traded off to...
I went back to look at it again & lone behold, it looks like something may have hooked onto the wires & pulled on them. Each wire had about 1/8" bare wire showing where it goes into the sensor. Just decided to swap in a new one because there is no real sealing that up to make sure it won't short...
I did put it as #1 on my list! Pretty sure I tested that when I first got the truck, but I will ad that to the list to check again. Actually had gone back & read my previous post & it was suggested when I was eyeing the truck & made me think of it again. With everything going on, easy to forget...
I didn't do the TPS but it was fine before all this & doesn't show signs of being moved. But, I should check it just to confirm. It won't hurt & it's a simple test. Don't think it would explain the TRANS light just being on either way. But who knows, this being so odd!
I'd love to have a...
I'd fill it with ATF. It is a detergent & lubricant that will help with the rubber parts. I'm fighting mine a bit still too. I just don't want to remove it & have it rebuilt.
I don't know how you can deal with Austin vs Floresville, it's two different worlds!
Everyone,
I've been troubleshooting this one for a few weeks now & am going to make a nice, long detailed post.
Truck is a 1988 M1097R1 w/ A2 powertrain in it from it's 2012 rebuild.
The first obstical was putting a new TCM in the truck when I finally got it. If you want, read up on...
When you had the IP cover off, did you exercise the springs & flapper in there? The shut off solenoid pushes against a flapper. The seat gets sticky & the mechanical pump will not overcome it.
I exercised mine by hand & cleaned like you did & then filled it with ATF. Let it soak overnight...
Keep in mind if you use a direct inverter, you will not get the needed surge amperage so your output from the inverter will be reduced. Batteries will be needed.
I didn't realize until just now your location... that makes things a bit more challenging. I have refurbished ones to sell but it would not be worth the shipping!
In my opinion, I'd just leave the MEP 501A as it is & find a MEP 531A. In the end, it will be way cheaper. Unless you want the project of course. I wish I had just left it together, but at the time, had no need for the 28v. I'd love to have one again.
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