Recent content by Cory1337

IN

Works great. It saves a lot of cranking to get fuel flowing. I do still unplug the red wire and do a 5 second crank, plug in red wire and she starts right up. Really worked get when I replaced the rubber lines by the fuel tank. Was able to prime up to the filter and she fired right up.

I purchased the fm100 kit from Napa. Filter/ base # 4913 Primer pump #4921 Settling bowl #4924 5 micron filter #600159 As a warning the filter that comes with the 4913 base from Napa is a 150 micron filter. I was unable to find the base with a 5 micron filter from Napa. Used some 1in...

Not the fuel door, m1010. It was like the whole truck was vibrating at its harmonic. I could just breathe on the skinny peddle and the vibration and drone was gone. I plan to replace the motor and transmission mounts, but a screw driver on the idle screw has me fixed up for now. Merry...

Adjusted the idle screw to increase the idle slightly. Was having a drone/vibration problem when stopped in drive or reverse. Read somewhere on here about how just increasing the idle a fraction will fix it. Thanks whoever you are!!! Also discovered a leaking radiator... It's leaking around...

Just got back from NAPA the 3546 filter didn't fit my base. The 533913 filter has 3 notches in the lip that fit around 3 spots on the base. The 3546 filter lip is round. Anyone with a base that fits the 3546 filter know what model number that is?

I went with the FM100 NAPA 4913 kit. Because I like to be prepared I thought I'd pick up a filter to put on the shelf. While looking up the replacement I found out that the 533913 that came in the NAPA 4913 kit is a 150 micron filter. :sad: I did find that the correct number should be a NAPA...

My truck has had what souded like an exhaust leak since I had it. Found out tonight the large line on the vacuum pump was leaking. Double clamped it while I was replacing vacuum lines and it shifts like a dream and quiet to boot. 2 birds one additional hose clamp. The hose from the auto...

I like that tread pattern, what brand are those?

Voltermeter could be a fuse or relay here's some helpful posts. You might need to pull the gauge and see if you are getting anything at the plug to verify it's not a faulty gauge. Fuses: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-fuse-box-layout.132309/ Relays...

I am suggesting the OP check this relay, and using the doghead as a reference to where it is located. In my opinion battery cables do not explain a no start twice and randomly start 3rd time. Sounds more like a faulty relay to me.

I believe it is next to those relays. Here is the doghead relay mod post. It will show you what the original looks like. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/doghead-starter-relay-modifcation.60960/

There is a relay under the dash(middle) that is related to the starter. Check out the doghead relay for more info. Because you are 12v you don't really need to upgrade to the bigger relay, but you might want to test it. If that relay isn't the issue, might be time to get the starter checked...

I replaced my lines from the tank to the frame rail, getting rid of the steel lines across the back of the cab. I had the issue of the truck was hard to start, and then one day it died on me on the road, so I started tracking down possible points of failure. You'll need 3/8in and 1/4in.

Welcome! I agree you look to be converted to 12 volts on the batteries. Do you still have a wire going to the large resistor on the firewall and then from the resistor to the glow plug relay? That is how the factory 24volt system converted to 12volts for the glow plugs. This might be related...