Recent content by Defcon-1

After taking more items apart, I found there was a ton of rust scale in my coolant reservoir, I bought commercial-grade cleaning vinegar (30% strength, normal vinegar is 5%) and soaked the inside of it over night (off of the truck that is). Tons of scale came out, super nasty. Then since I had...

This is after the 3rd flush, (Technically flush #10+ since first starting in December lol) still getting some brown at the end of the flow, going to keep doing it but it's definitely getting better: https://youtube.com/shorts/6u93sgtjU3o?feature=share

A couple of "make this look better before putting it back together" pictures:

It probably is if the main fuel-filter is doing its job / is being serviced routinely and drained frequently. I wonder what the engineering perspective was for the little fuel filter 🤔

Good question, lots of variables to truly have a definitive answer, I guess it would vary on engine hours / mileage + rpm average, quality of fuel, if using fuel additives, etc. If you have the 8.3 (not sure if you have the NHC 250) I've read that the little filter can be 2 years / 22.5k miles...

Honestly I'm not sure what you're getting at, are you saying there is stand-alone corrosion inhibitor systems you can hook up to the engine?

Sounds good, will report back with findings, ty!

Ty Sir, the filter does get really hot so I know I have (decent) flow through it lol. The port on this filter-base is much wider than the (Napa?) one that a lof of guys use, and I liked how it was multi-directional instead of having to feed in from the top only. I wound up just using the hoses...

You think I should fuss with it where it attaches to the front of the engine? Or just disconnect it from the Tach end to see if it's actually rotating?

I have a problem with my Tach, both the RPM indication *and* the Hobbs Meter don't work. Looking in the TM I see that there is a "Tachometer Pulse Sensor" that is right behind the gauge. Does that drive both functions of "RPM" and "Engine Hours"? I'm trying to best troubleshoot the parts before...

Also since I mentioned it previously, here are some pix of the coolant-filter I installed, I will be changing the spin-on after all this and opening the current one to see how much stuff was caught in the past few months and during the flush, will be interesting to see I think:

Good to hear on this, I know most of the "material" settles so getting it out of the block quicker will help. I'll do the drain and flushes with the t-stat removed, and then do a final install on the new gaskets / seal / T-stat before adding last round of distilled water and coolant-concentrate.

That's a good copy, how much per gallon / the system for the flush? How long should it sit in there before draining out? I guess I'm paranoid about clogging up lines with all the rust it will remove lol.

Yes Sir I ordered the T-Stat with new seal as well, probably original part in there it's time to come out if opened up I say lol. That's great about the diverter-plug I actually didn't know what that was for but now it makes total sense, thank you!

I have to replace a leaking thermostat-housing gasket and noticed the coolant is still rusty / coffee-like so I think it's good to do another system flush on top of this. To do this with white vinegar as suggested, since it is a mild acid, how many gallons to add to the system? How long should...