Recent content by edpdx

I had some fuse box problems this week, but was able to make a workaround. Would I be better off getting a newer fuse box that has a few more options?

I was able to get a prying tool between the back of the hood and the cowl. Baby rocking movements and the hood came back up in the corners. It opens and closes like a winner again. Thanks for all comments.

Overlooked latching and now I can’t get the hood open. Looks like the blow forced the bolts to pull the rear of the hood downwards. I can only get the hood open 6 inches before it binds against the cowl. Any ideas on how to procede?

After several weeks of life without my Blazer, I finally have it road worthy again, and so fa, it is running very smooth. I had this runaway, and then I was scared $4!+13$$ to even start the buggar. With help and recommendations from net friends willing to share, I was able to put the face...

There is an extra spot for the temp gauge on the passenger side, buried behind the intake leg on the number 8 port. It has a block off plate, but a GM part with a bung for a temp gauge is available. I went this route, but have not been all that satisfied. I don't know if the temp switch it too...

Thought I'd share: I used battery cable and insulated wire that matches the purple wire to the starter solenoid. Essentially, these are leads to the starter solenoid that terminate under the vehicle using appropriate sized Anderson Connectors. The purple cable from under the dash connects to...

Cool, good luck.:cool:

My 70's Chevy's all go past full- but I still let them get down to 1/8th tank without sweating finding a gas station. If in doubt... fill a jerry can and when you run out mark the lens. :cool:

I had some trouble getting rubber line to go in without developing kinks when hot. I used https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Molded-Fuel-Line-Rubber/dp/B07C8YTNPF I gives you 4 basic curves to work with. It may come in other diameters.

Second this. My audit trail here regarding my starter woes is long. I finally realized that all the starters I put in to fix the same problem had stamped into them NOT to SHIM. Then I read that rebuilders of these starters often mill the mating deck to freshen the rebuild. The starter may be ok...

I just had about the most harrowing event of my (surely shortened) life. I had the top of the IP off to adjust the Face cam. I got too comfortable reinstalling the top and I'm guessing I missed setting the lever n the right spot. As soon as I cranked it over all #311 broke loose. I knew what had...

I have not run a compression test. I'll have to look it up. I have a kit, not sure if it has the stuff for desels. I did find that the old #5 GP was pretty wet with fuel when pulled it... not sure what to do about it?

Actually I noticed a little loss of power in the hills for a few weeks before the top end dropped out. I was in the foothills and suddenly I felt the accelerator feeling as though its cable was slipping and not pulling the throttle anymore than half way down. Otherwise the IP is about a year...

SO after charging both batteries overnight I loosened all the GPs and cranked until they ALL bled. Tightened them down and on the second crank they lit off. During the test drive it was slow to develop speed- the trans sounded like it was whining for a shift; second gear came late-sounding at...

UPDATE: I'm not closing out the thread yet, but I am making progress. I installed the 60G plugs- I have been running them since my first change from stock Wellman's. The GPs were purchased at a price more inline with MSRP- Bought from the ACDELCO seller (really ACDELCO?) on Amazon. They went...