Recent content by emndive

I should be all set, nothing was tampered with. I had no power to the LUGS but I didn't have the switch on (or in the correct position). Thanks guys

the light comes on with "open' circuit?

Silly question.... should the AC interrupter be open or closed with normal operation? No power to lugs and didn't want to "mess" with anything. Thanks guys!

good call on batteries!

WELL.......... I feel like an idiot. After charging batteries overnight it was obvious one of them was bad. Installed a new battery this AM and she started right up. Thanks for all the help guys, you're like tech support on steroids! Hopefully I won't need this generator this winter!

I’ll report back in AM. I have both batteries charging over night. Didn’t realize the dead crank start was less draw verses S1 but makes perfect sense now. Thank u. I’ll lost first thing tmr

its The all metal switch. Any idea where the white starter solenoid wire come from? Does it run from the dead crank switch?

Pulled the top off and tightened/ cleaned everything. Everything looks nice and new. The solenoid (silver much like a ford starter solenoid) under the top cover is getting 24V in and only about 15V out. I'm still unable to get any voltage to the starter "trigger" wire #113B12.

Hi all, I've been reading several other posts and this seems to be a somewhat frequent post but I still can't find by answer. Just took delivery of a MEP-803a re powered engine with 4.6 hours. Clean machine! I am unable to get it running with the "S1" switch. Fuel pump kicks on and I noticed...

Hi All, I apologize as I know these are frequent Posts (and I have read them all). Our FD just got a surplus HMMWV and I have been having a crank no start issue since we got it. It will crank all day long and put out white smoke out of tail pipe. I have good fuel pressure at injectors. The...

I fluid film the $hit out of all my equipment once a year and every thing has held up beautifully. It’s a rust preventative/ lubricator. Designed for navy and nasa, it must be good!

I read on another post on this site that someone had a similar issue and as being a mechanic myself I have messed up quite a lot so I figured there was a possibility. Everything is labeled now for the future. The cab lock is still dripping with the raise and lower valve but I can deal with that...

OKAY! upon further review. The 2 lines on the hydro pump were reversed. Not sure who in Tennessee unhooked them but they are on the correct way and everything works as it should. Now I have to go find the three wrenches I threw in the woods! Thanks for all the help and input guys! have a good...

Okay-- last ditch effort.... if hydro pump is bad what if I disconnect the pressure and return lines and joint them together to bypass the pump and see if the manual pump works? that would rule out a bad pump or pump seal right? update- still wont build pressure but I do notice the cab latch is...

what would happen if the lift piston was seized?