Recent content by ericp351

2 thoughts. Trans converter is stuck Locked, as it should be on top gears ONLY. Try in "1-5" setting or high range as the trans doesn't know what your trans case is doing. Basic- check out and adjust your linkages if binding. Good Luck.

You asked, so I'll give you my opinion. I think 250 hrs ESPECIALLY if lots of starts/ stops, is a bit long. If clean , tight engine and great oil, lots of steady load, long hot running, IE industrial type operation, 250 hrs may be OK. Oil analysis is probably the way to figure that out. Also...

Oil analysis preferred, but not always workable! I go by 3,000 miles- long time for me- and use modern oil with lots of detergents and Total Base # to kill acids, and I do stretch "time". Cost-benefit for me is look for a good price/sale and write off oil and filter cost as part of the game...

Hi. The classic drain-check is not complicated, but some times takes a while. Break the circuit- like pull the main 24V hot. Then put your amp meter in series, that wire/ cable to the bat post where it was. All amps draining will now read. Be careful to use a proper fused meter- correctly...

Yes- trouble with REVERSE and LOW only! Look for any dash tag. This site- topics has those manuals "down-loads", above. Ask venders for paper copies. Fun tip- check your fuel cut (solenoid by rack) if crank-no start BEFORE batts die. Tie "open"- plunger retract, if troubles underway...

Hi. Advice "to tide you over". Think that turn signal parts are general commercial pieces. Ask around truck repair/ truck-stops. People have long fixed up tractor steering wheels with JB Weld. Not hard to sand, paint as reqd. If wheel completely trashed, ask a vender for a good used. My...

In the cab. My A2 had a simple cover. Pull it and see if the bracket is secure. ANY play = reduced throw at spool valve. Recommend you do not adjust cable end/ clevis before check. If OK, your call- leave it or run a bead or extra bolts.

I had same trouble. Row of spot welds broke in the "cab-winch-control box". Limited effective throw of the linkage to the spool valve. Moved enough for No-Load spool in only. Fast to check. 1 part of these trucks not stupid Over-Built.

Can you make one- 3/16" plate, or better? Any cool Ball. Note- the inside spot-welds (for the 'pivot-bracket') may need looked at . Mine were not very strong.

Personally, I'm more concerned with my tires than axles when I haul stuff. My truck , empty, also once weighed 22,222 lbs with fr. winch and 1/2 tank fuel. Ten (short) tons in bed just works... !

I'm risk sounding like a smart-ass, (don't want too...), but ain't the Tag the official weight rating? That said- I agree- these are provin axles. I have carried 10 tons, 40,000# gross, a few times. "Pumpkins" stayed cool.

As to trans fluid--- My low miles truck still serves well with the military motor oil. Needs to warm up to be at all smooth, Runs cool , even loaded in summer. Gut feel is tires and or sticky brakes your bigger concern now. Good luck, again.

Sounds like your communication with seller may take longer than a simple check. That said- since you have reverse, I'd try warm, then test with good oil level and drive to N, then Rev. That is find out "how does she work when super babied "? Also smell check your fluid and figure if Motor Oil...

Cool. For me- answer was new, military surplus one. Only bit of work with basic mount differences. You may "buy some time" if you pop out blow vlv, clean and lightly lube, as said above. No rebuild kit needed. Civilian (little!) ones an option. Some plumbing and 24V heater issues, maybe.

For now- the purge vlv comes apart with just a few snap rings, in place. A cleaning will get you thru to getting a new unit. When it blows on the road- pull over and bump with something small and blunt, like a small nut driver.