Recent content by ericp351

You probably have a very good handle on your gear. I also see no trouble in mixing 10-20W hyd oil with 20-30 wt. My A2 Allison trans has the Gov Spec engine oil in. I still think Universal Trans Fluid may be better than your Hyd oil. Just a bit more money than your hyd oils. your fight!

My 2 cents. Oil questions are "big can O worms" issues. Dextron is common trans fluid. GM hydromantic for decades. Very common and widely used. Many hyd systems can use motor oil. Expect noise cold/ sluggish. Hyd oil is cheaper, usually thinner, and lacks additives hyd systems do not need. My...

Agree with above, and I'd triple check batts AND pull starter hot, hit switch and confirm 24V pos. Lots of power in 2 or 4 batts to risk an acid bath or fire! Good luck.

Sorry that I can't help- live in Pa. Anyway- if truck is "home"- call Ag guys/ farmers. Men who fix tractors should handle your rig. Good Luck.

2 thoughts. Trans converter is stuck Locked, as it should be on top gears ONLY. Try in "1-5" setting or high range as the trans doesn't know what your trans case is doing. Basic- check out and adjust your linkages if binding. Good Luck.

You asked, so I'll give you my opinion. I think 250 hrs ESPECIALLY if lots of starts/ stops, is a bit long. If clean , tight engine and great oil, lots of steady load, long hot running, IE industrial type operation, 250 hrs may be OK. Oil analysis is probably the way to figure that out. Also...

Oil analysis preferred, but not always workable! I go by 3,000 miles- long time for me- and use modern oil with lots of detergents and Total Base # to kill acids, and I do stretch "time". Cost-benefit for me is look for a good price/sale and write off oil and filter cost as part of the game...

Hi. The classic drain-check is not complicated, but some times takes a while. Break the circuit- like pull the main 24V hot. Then put your amp meter in series, that wire/ cable to the bat post where it was. All amps draining will now read. Be careful to use a proper fused meter- correctly...

Yes- trouble with REVERSE and LOW only! Look for any dash tag. This site- topics has those manuals "down-loads", above. Ask venders for paper copies. Fun tip- check your fuel cut (solenoid by rack) if crank-no start BEFORE batts die. Tie "open"- plunger retract, if troubles underway...

Hi. Advice "to tide you over". Think that turn signal parts are general commercial pieces. Ask around truck repair/ truck-stops. People have long fixed up tractor steering wheels with JB Weld. Not hard to sand, paint as reqd. If wheel completely trashed, ask a vender for a good used. My...

In the cab. My A2 had a simple cover. Pull it and see if the bracket is secure. ANY play = reduced throw at spool valve. Recommend you do not adjust cable end/ clevis before check. If OK, your call- leave it or run a bead or extra bolts.

I had same trouble. Row of spot welds broke in the "cab-winch-control box". Limited effective throw of the linkage to the spool valve. Moved enough for No-Load spool in only. Fast to check. 1 part of these trucks not stupid Over-Built.

Can you make one- 3/16" plate, or better? Any cool Ball. Note- the inside spot-welds (for the 'pivot-bracket') may need looked at . Mine were not very strong.

Personally, I'm more concerned with my tires than axles when I haul stuff. My truck , empty, also once weighed 22,222 lbs with fr. winch and 1/2 tank fuel. Ten (short) tons in bed just works... !

I'm risk sounding like a smart-ass, (don't want too...), but ain't the Tag the official weight rating? That said- I agree- these are provin axles. I have carried 10 tons, 40,000# gross, a few times. "Pumpkins" stayed cool.