Recent content by ez8

IN

It will be on the frame behind the driver side wheel as soupermike mentioned. It may be hard to read if there are many layers of paint so the best option is to take a flashlight and shine is across the frame so you can see the numbers in relief. The VIN shouldn't be on the data plate as the...

Good point about the door mount tire. A very inconvenient mounting, especially under fire I would assume! I can confirm the B1 transmission is not synchronized. 1 to 2 are not synchronized, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are, though.

I have a '63 B1. It has Douglas style connectors, but Packards will connect to Douglas connectors with no issue. The internal male and female parts are the same. I don't have anything more than superficial rust on mine (it's called Patina, and it increases value! 8)). Mine was in a non-running...

If it's sweating oil I wouldn't worry about it. If it's a constant drip of oil when it's sitting there and it's leaving puddles you'd need to check it out. Like others have said modern vehicles are put together different than the old stuff. It's why the lube orders for these jeeps is usually in...

Was this the one that sold recently for $5,000 on the electronic auction site?

I did a short write up of my experience with the VPW stainless steel tank. It also has pictures. Overall, I rate it as good. If you're out of options it's worth the price. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?177574-VPW-Stainless-Steel-Fuel-Tank-for-M37

Depends on if your vehicle is already 12V or not. If not, you're going to be replacing the ignitions system, charging system, etc. You'll go north of that $200 pretty quickly.

When I spoke with Vintage Wiring of Maine last year in July, the price for a complete M37 wiring harness was $1,080 + freight.

Looks like a CJ-3B to me.

You can get pre-bent lines with the correct coiled guards around the lines from Midwest Military. That's where I got mine from. I think it was something like $200 for the set, but worth it to keep the frustration down. If you end up doing it yourself I'd recommend getting lengths of pre-flared...

While you're replacing the fronts you might as well do the back lines as well. Don't worry, this is a simple job. It took me an afternoon of crawling around on my back. I'm 6'0" and I can sit under the bed of the truck without putting it on jacks which helps when you're working back there.

I would also make sure that the frame is really a WW2 jeep frame. You can verify by looking for the machine gun mounting plate. It will be visible from under the vehicle, on the rear crossmember. You can see it here in my picture over on G503, 2nd post on the page, first picture...

Yes, but you may need to rebend them in places to get a better fit. Or, you could use longer bolts to secure them.

When I talked to VPW they said that it was slightly less capacity than the original tank, but you wouldn't know it by looking at it. It does have the port on the bottom rear of the tank. VPW includes a plug with the kit for that hole.