Recent content by foxtrk2

see the two pipes the back is sitting on , they clamp those pipes into the back of the cab

if its already out no sence not putting new in unless you like taking it apart

I think you are thinking about mad dog hes usually on here often

do you still have coil inside distributor and if so are the fording air lines still connected to the carb if they are make sure there clear they do flow air into the coil to help with cooling

ive gotten 2.5 hose gaskets from local fgire dept they work fine

man you are so spot on I went through the same thing when I got my 63 contact truck running . and even bought new carb from vintage only to find out the dist cap was badly cracked in fact had to take an old original cap off junked motor and clean with dremmel tool brush and its styill in...

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I put one in my truck six years back, got it from vintage, only thing id advise is to besure all things in your system match and are in good shape ie wireing from front to back , that gauges match with right connectors. I tried using metal and rubber connectors and they wont work...

years ago some had a stone like material inside but for probably last twenty or so more years they are just to collect water and sediment. the one on my m37 has been working just fine for all these years without anything inside

I think your idea of putting the por15 under the seal would work. only suggestion id have is to go up the side quite a bit higher than you are showing , water usually migrates from the top down

as an owner of one id advise all wireing, complete brake job including all lines and cylinders, and fuel lines wouldn't hurt also . I did mine when I got it and for ten years now runs perfect with nothing more than routine maint.

I don't think youll worry about computer on m 37 lol but on newer vehicles it is an issue

if it helps when we change lights on tractor trailer units to led we have to install a load resistor to make flasher work at correct speed and to convince computer that lights are in working condition