Recent content by G3isMe

If you want to order the blades online I found these. They also sell the original arms. If you want aftermarket arms and blades look for arms that fit a 1980 - 1995 Jeep CJ7 /Wrangler,that's what I did and they work great, and like Mogman stated "...refills are only a Walmart away."...

I replaced the female end of the quick connect fitting and I had a new hydraulic hose made by a local shop. That stopped the leak. I would have liked to have had an Inspector Gadget arm to reach the hose but I persevered. I have read conflicting opinions on the need to bleed the the system...

In for the win 2

Thanks guys. I greatly appreciate the feedback and advice.

Correct, my original intent was to replace both sides; hoses and couplers. I am not sure where it is leaking or even which side is leaking. I tried reaching up there but my monkey arms were not quite long enough to remove or replace the coupler. In the long run i think it will be easier to...

Thanks springer, I may take you up on the offer .

I have a 2003 1045A2 with a leaky quick connect fitting on the line behind the radiator. It started as slow drip and is getting worse. I assume the fan and shroud have to come off? I have gone through the tech memos but I haven't found anything concerning the fan and shroud removal; which...

I wonder what adhesive was originally used. My 2003 1045A2, when I bought it in 2019, still had a lot of the foam insulation left on the rear hatch area. The glue was pretty thick underneath the foam. I had to scrape it to remove the insulation. The foam was breaking down before the glue...

That is an excellent idea. I was wondering what I could use to insulate my 1045A2. Now I know, thanks. Did you use headliner spray adhesive or what?

IN

I used the same neoprene tape as Andy, no rivets, and I drilled 4 additional holes through the turret top cover and the roof for bolts. She has not leaked since. This and a new $25 rear hatch seal and I too have 99.5% of my leaks "covered.".

I see the bend but I think that can be over come. I had to loosen the exhaust pipe at that fitting and then try to line up the holes for the mounting holes in the fender while the exhaust was loose. It will move and twist around quite a bit, to the point where I thought mine wasn't going to...

Measure from the bend to where it attaches and we can compare it to mine. You may have one for an armored vehicle. You could use a spacer of some sort if that is the case or have it cut and rewelded like 86Humv suggested

This is on a 1045A2. They did make a much longer one for those trucks with armor. The lower pipe where it attaches sticks out about 3 inches further than this one does. I also used a top hat rubber bushing with a threaded insert I bought at Lowe's or Home Depot. Be sure you have the bracket...

Here are some. These are priced about $5 per 50 pieces. Clipsandfasteners.com. haha if you have a former up-armored truck like me you may need 100...one more project. I haven't completed plugging mine yet.