Recent content by G744

Make sure your gas tank is properly vented to the atmosphere. Otherwise, as gas is used and air is not let back in a vacuum will develop and stall it out. For the brake problem, make sure the MC pushrod has a tiny bit of slack, as the lack of same can keep it from totally releasing.

It's a Jeep. Like I previously said, they had their own ideas...:unsure: G744

I'd buy Korean dog-bone bushings, if the crazy tarriffs didn't make 'em Gold.

Yep, Kaiser Jeep Corp has always had a 'way' about their designs, for better or worse. I bet it chapped their a$$ to have to build 2.5 & 5 tons according to plans of others for those juicy contracts back in the day.

The horn is fed 24V to one terminal on same, the other goes to the horn button switch, looking for a ground to complete the circuit . Worst to happen, it will honk. Won't hurt anyone... I have seen the column wire twisted in two from a million turns over the years.

A right front blowout on a banked turn did it for me, back in the mid 70's. Made a mess out of the things like my hardtop, bed sides, all the windshield stuff, and hood. The only injuries were me & the wife with Pepperoni-sized lacerations on our plams, somehow.

Don't forget the tank needs to get air back in as the gas goes out. Most of the time the gas cap has a selector inside, set to 'open' or 'vent'. D

Ah man, those Cummins repowers are everywhere. If that Tornado fails again, get yerself a Detroit 4-53 silver turbo mated to a Spicer 3053 and make that glorious 2-stroke noise! D

Yep, plenty plated HMMWV's around here.

Indeed, but my reply isn't so much about powerful wrenches for lugs, rather the fact that tire shops habitually run them up way too tight. OTR trucks on freeways always make me a little nervous, are they flying along with hubs full of weakened lugs? Maybe the newer hub-centered wheels use...

You might want to check what torque they used on your lugnuts. Most tire shops stall a 1" drive impact on every one, the result will make your changing a flat almost impossible. Multiply that by 20 for just one rear set... Your weight and 24" bar/wrench will be plenty to hold things together...

In the early 50's tactical lighting switches made by Bendix had TWO receptacles, one for the truck's lighting, the other for the trailer connections via a separate loom to the NATO 12-wire receptacle. Conelrad

I've rebuilt many G741 front axles, and never had to remove those dowels during so. The easiest way to separate the halves is to use some 3" or so 1/2NC bolts, thread it in, and tap with a hammer until it comes apart. Leave the alignment pins (dowels) in one side or the other, they were done...

Any time one plays with carb jets it is wise to buy/rent/borrow a stoichiometric ratio meter. Running lean for better mileage will earn you burned valves or worse.

There are rubber seals that travel with the pedals up against the floorboard, and they subtract a bit of travel. They are a bitch to install, most soak them in carb cleaner a bit so they will stretch over the oval part without tearing.