Recent content by jam

Ah that makes sense, oh well... thanks for the info!

Hey guys, I've got a head scratcher. I've seen people run dual turbos... which would mean the engine is powering each turbo off of 4 cylinders right? I have acquired the 6.5 manifold, turbo, oil tube etc... to perform the upgrade of the relatively low mileage 6.2NA to a turbo motor. So...

So would these be the kinds of plugs we are talking about? and would you need to bind it to the transfer case with a tie down or something? https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23400-Transmission-Transaxle-Plug/dp/B000P0U04G Lisle 23400 Transmission/Transaxle Plug It appears to be a set of plugs: Five...

There are also print on demand services (I helped build the original lulu.com) that can take a pdf and make it into a book for you. Even make it for sale if you so wish. Fine color, or black and white, varying sizes. Might be worth trying if you want a hard copy.

Hah, Thanks! They were 500 off craigslist... guy just needed cash for xmas... couldn't turn em down.. and they sure are purdy:)

Picked up a set of used standard WARN Dana 60 30 spline hubs off ebay for $100. I also picked up a WARN 11714 Rebuild kit off Amazon for 33 bucks that includes new gaskets, lockrings, allen head bolts and stickers for both sides. I dug through all the videos online and all the instructions I...

So an update... I ordered a new cold idle advance solenoid, and the little glass ball valve to go with it. I also ran checks on the power line going from the thermostat to the solenoid and wasn't getting power. So... ran a new wire from the thermostat, replaced the solenoid and glass ball...

Right on, thanks again for the help! I'll post back the compression pressures in case its useful for somebody else in the future.

So after digging into the ball valve it looks like its pushed into the open state by the solenoid... which would reduce backpressure by 10psi and increase the advance by approx 4 degrees. So in my case, since it appears the ball is in fact missing, then am I right to assume the engine should be...

WOW, that was awesome, that explains so much! Going to give that a go... thinking I need to get the new solenoid and find the glass ball check valve (no idea where to get this, doesnt seem to show up on google, going to dig for a part number in the manuals) for the injector pump first though so...

Ah vacuum is for transmission shifting... that makes sense.

Pulled the top off the IP and pulled the primary fuel solenoid... applied power to both posts and it actuated. Clamped the ground to the body of the lid and touched hot to the post for the cold advance solenoid and nothing happened. Also tried applying power from the engine shutoff lead to the...

Definitely think the back will be fine stock. I'm curious about the zero rate, moving the front axle forward an inch seems like it would help alot... and they appear to give 1" of lift too. I'm curious if coupling those with the heavy duty shackles which seem to add another 1/2"...

Will try advancing the timing... the lift pump is an airtex E8153 pulling through a Baldwin BF1212 Heavy Duty Diesel Fuel Spin-On Filter. Used the airtex after reading h76287-Electric-fuel-pump-recommendation and 48444-Electric-fuel-Pump-install... seems to have worked for some folks. Not sure...

Just thought you might want to see the h2 rims with bfg's on an m1008 without a lift. I had to turn the wheel straight just to get them on the truck... pretty sure there is no way I can run them as is... going to definitely require trimming or a lift. Would prefer to keep it low myself as I...