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Bumping an old thread here but I installed a soft start on my 2.5 ton AC unit. My house is mostly gas with the AC and 3 kids tvs, gaming systems, 2 fridges and a deep freezer being most of my electrical load. I use to run a 803 and downsized to a 802.
Needless to say when the AC would cycle on...
Aftermarket fuel/water separators lacks the drain hose on the bottom which can make a mess inside your unit when you do drain water. With two needle valves, a cap, some fuel line and clamps you can rig one together.
You'll need two 1/4in OD X 1/8in MIP angle needle valves and a 1/4in OD...
*update*
So I replaced the IP that had the leak and shimmed them as mentioned in this thread. I also suspected that there was some bad fuel so I kinda threw everything I had at the machine. I replaced the fuel and separator filters, did an oil change and a few upgrades.
She is running strong...
I confirmed that it was leaking from the body of the IP. Once I had a bead of weld applied it stopped leaking. Just to be safe I ordered a new one.
When it comes to installing the IP I always only removed one at a time and was sure to move the adjustment pin far left. I've never had to force...
It definitely makes sense and I've noticed the same. I'm using crimp clamps and when I pinch the clamp it causes a portion to become raised.
When I install the IP I turn the hose to move the raised portion out of the way.
I should have asked but I didn't think about it until now. You can hit a pushrod tube going in both directions. Did you turn the IP clockwise or counterclockwise to hit the pushrod tube?
LOL look at my thread right next to yours, I'm working on the same part and I can definitely tell you how to put it back together. My problem is I have two IP's that have different amounts of rings in them so I don't know how many actually go into a IP.