Recent content by kallisti5

> I must be the luckiest CUCV owner alive. After owning many, many CUCV's I have never replaced a harmonic balancer on any of the CUCV's I owned. I never replaced one on any vehicle I owned. I had vehicles from the 60's that had the original balancers on them. I am a firm believer in "if it...

> You don't specifically need a $500 Fluidampr. Any new harmonic balancer will extend the life of your engine. Summit has new Dorman balancers for under $100. Replacing the old harmonic balancer should be the absolute first thing you should do to extend the life of your engine. Just my 2 cents...

I've read some horror stories of the stock Harmonic balancers coming apart on the 6.2L's and destroying engines. (Rubber coming apart, etc) I've got no projects planned for my M1009 at the moment.. would a new fluidampr be a good investment? They're kinda pricey, so it would take a lot of...

It crossed my mind to just throw it into a burn pile... it's not load bearing or anything. In theory I could quench it and sharpen it too :lol:

oof. ok. I was a bit naive thinking I could just peel + scrape it of it off and maybe torch any remaining bits. I'll plan to give them both a soak.

Anyone out there have tips to strip off the rubber / plastic coating on the top battery brackets on the M1009? They're peeling + rusting at the edges. I'm swapping the batteries and wanted to take a quick crack at repainting the tops with self-etch and giving them a cheap rubber bed-liner...

Ah. Thanks for filling in the gap here. Was trying to figure out standard names to see if we could locate caps not tied to the CUCV via part numbers / etc. I've seen folks mentioning the CUCV could be tanker-filled with the "extremely high volume" filler neck (at least triple a semi-truck...

I was poking around looking for a new fuel tank cap for my M1009 (and quickly realizing my current cap with the clogged vent is worth it's weight in gold) and stumbled across a military fuel truck nozzle on eBay... It kind of looks "correct". (The end is a clamp which would seemingly...

Been a while since I posted. * Roll on bedliner $69 * Soft top ($900 oof) * Rear tires (dry-rotted, $300) * Change rear diff fluid (a nice shade of black coffee) * Driver + Passenger door cards (~$275) * Driver + Passenger rubber seals Longer Ago: * Transmission fluid changed * All important...

Eh. I ended up making my own helicoils. (wall diameter too thin) Drilled threaded insert out of new ball, ground the aluminum nut from the stock ball and epoxied it in place. It looks better than the picture. I also "rebuilt" the housing. 1) Remove the 35 year old peanut butter grease 2)...

Ah. I'm in the process of removing the ancient rubber "carpet" in my M1009 and just noticed these. Thanks for the tip. Plan on extending the bedliner into the drivers area after filling some rust holes in the floor edges. I found the following cheap product on Amazon for the transfer case...

Dammit. You're right too often. I checked the temp and I was doing around 300-400F. Got er' up to 500-600F+ and it finally broke loose. "If the undercoating isn't on fire, you're not heating it up enough." I just drilled out the one with the stripped torx... tired of dicking with it lol.

"heating (bottom nut)" That was my first goto. :-) PB blaster overnight, propane torch on bottom nut for ~1 - 2 minutes. No movement with breaker bar. These Torx bits will only take so much before they snap. I'll try a bit longer heat on the one not rounded off.

Thanks. Drill it is. I'll pick up some new "good" bits and try to drill them out. Man, I hate big Torx. Just use a damn bolt GM

Anyone have any magic woo-woo tricks to remove the rear T50 seatbolt belts in the M1009? Wanted to apply bedliner to the back-half and they seem "permanent" lol I've been PB-blastin (top + bottom), heating (bottom nut), beating, PB-blastin (top + bottom), heating (bottom nut), beating for a...