Recent content by Keith Knight

Along with the new heavy duty cylinder I purchased the military cab prop tool, basically lift the cab put the support tool in between the latch and the cab then lower the cab onto it. Then you can safely remove the cylinder. The biggest problem is that it limits how much room you have to work on it.

Not much better options for screws. Maybe rivets.

Yes I did this a few months ago, very vague instructions.

We are going anyone else?

The biggest downside is with eco hubs and original gears even in mode 1st gear down steep slopes you’re ridding the brakes way more. With just original gears mode 1st does a good job at keeping to a crawl down steep grades.

Traveled 20,000 mile on highway gears 3.07. Changed back to original gears and eco hubs this past fall and traveled another 14,000 miles. I definitely recommend the original gears and eco hubs. Any more loss of power and I really would not be happy.

So correct on flat mounting a winch relying on the 4 bolts is taking the bolts to max capacity. Rotate the winch 90 degrees and weld the heck out of it and then puts the stress on the bottom and not the bolts.

For the record screw in the longest 3/8 bolt into the end of the shaft and it will give you leverage to reinstall it.

Just measured the rear outside to outside of the shackle mount is 34 1/2, front is 34. So a 1/4” spacer on each side for the front and you’re golden!

If anyone needs more photos of mine, let me know! My number one goal was keeping it tucked as close to the cross member tube as possible. I do like the idea of your design especially if it fit the rear! Then could possibly keep it on the rear and move it forward when needed.

Find a donor vehicle and buy the used transmission.

What! No machine gun that’s bull s….!!!

Cut them off and made my own connectors.

I just made my own. Connecting it to the truck. Back before they were available. 10 years ago.

Mine measures in at 51”