Recent content by Lurchwolf

I know this is late, but I have to say something. A D44 will be just fine for what you are doing. The strength issues come in when you stick bigger than 35s on your truck while beating on it. Bottom line, a D44 is a perfectly good axle and good on the pocket book.

I'll put something up here because I did a conversion like this. Truths: 1. You can keep the torque converter. It is a high torque rated unit that has a stall very near a gas TC. I kept mine as is. 2. The trans my at the most need only a minor governor calibration to keep the shift points...

It's almost funny, I had the same problem. Thought it was a ground. I tested for it and it was confirmed, so I put a ground strap between the cab and bed, fixed it. But at the same time I found the actual cause. The bed was only loosely bolted to the frame, LOL. Cranked the bolts down and am...

So I finished up my 350 conversion to replace the 6.2 and took it for the first test drive. I have to tell you what a difference! Lots of power, and I think she will be more dependable if nothing else because I was forced to fix all the lousy wiring problems it came with. Gonna do a filter...

Tapping the box is for a steering assist ram, but if you want constant fluid pressure, you need to simply run a line inline on the pressure side of the circuit.

What? No. LOL rofl LOL With Hydroboost, it is no different at any rate. I am thinking a hydro winch may just grace the front of my 1008 next year too.

Those are Wellman 070. They suck. These things swell and break with reckless abandon, I suggest the AC Delco 60-G or similar. I think Bosch makes one as well that folks over at Dieselplace are using.

I think those are just Wellman 097. I had two fail on a 150 mile trip brand new. One broke due to a stuck injector(not the plug's fault) and one swell badly for no discernible reason. They all went in the trash. Just buy the AC Delco 60g. They don't heat as fast but are very robust.

Just knocked all the pistons out of the 6.2 so I can evaluate if the block is a good core. Then it is off to get tanked and magna-fluxed.

It is used. I pulled it off my truck in favor of doing an engine swap, and just no longer need it.

I have one. Does not leak. I am not sure if I have been on here long enough to advertise that I am selling, but I'll check the rules.

Tear down Well, I pulled out the motor yesterday after a loud bang and lots of smoke. Tore it down today and found two cracked/burned up pistons, one with a hole and a melted injector. The block and heads look in great shape, but I just don't see it being worth the cost to rebuild such an...

I drove my M1008 home from across the state and blew a hole in a piston. I guess the next post I make will be after I do a motor swap.

Just stick with the Rotella T. It has all of the detergents and stabilizers you need. Forget the Lucas stuff, that is more a marketing company than a lube company. Any large GM 90 degree filter will fit anyways, use whatever # they gave you for the J code. I would avoid any filter made by Allied...

Just make sure you go to the parts store and get new torque convertor bolts, do not reuse the old ones. They are old and stressed, if you break one, then you would have to remove the tranny to replace it. Use loctite red to put the new ones in, this is important. Ask my grenaded LT1 motor why, lol.