Recent content by Maddogg2.0

Hey guys, The instrument panel door on my mep002a is in terrible shape, and I ended up scoring a nos one on ebay for around 40 bux. Problem is that my current panel only has one of the original locks and its in terrible shape. Does anyone have a source for the lock assemblies. I tried a few...

Hmm that might explain why my mep002 has "120 volt outlet disconnected, do not use, mwo" spraypainted on the front of it.

I make sure its pressed it. I'm gonna try a continuity test to see if the lil breaker is good.

You guys know where the wires for the outlet r supossed to be connected to? Everything in my electrical bay is hooked up and there r no loose wires now, but it still doesn't wanna work. I made sure the breaker was closed too lol.

Wow, thanks a ton jim!! My main reconnect switch was stuck solid, like it wouldn't move at all. Jim recommended a product called "deoxit 5" from radioshack. It comes in a small black spray can, and its about 16 bux. I stuck the little straw on the can, set the spray selector to low, and sprayed...

Quick question lol again, on my unit the charging system is not charging the batteries, I found a section in the tm that talks about removing wires from terminal 5 and 6 on tb3 and hooking them to a battery in order to see if the vr is good. I'm confused because I saw a few threads where that...

See that's what's throwing me off, the switch looks like its all the way clockwise, but when I select 120/240 single phase, neither of the positions work. I need to loosen up my switch, clean it, and see where its really at, any tips on freeing a stuck one?

I'm pretty sure, its hard to tell in the meantime until my new knob shows up because mines missing, I think its all the ways clockwise.

You guys know of any reason as to why there is voltage present at the meter for the 3 phase selections, but nothing present for either single phase

Sweet.... I got my trusty ol fluke meter out, and tested for voltage at the gauge, and sure enough, I was able to tune it from 200 up to 239. Looks like I have a bunk voltage gauge. Now, onto the courtesey outlet and the charging system. Btw, I reconnected the loose wire that was hanging off...

Hey guys, does the main breaker have to be on for the voltage gauge to preperly read? I changed the volt meter/ammeter selector switch over to 120/240 1 phase because that's where the master reconnect switch looks like it is, which is stuck btw lol, and I saw no voltage on the volt meter

I don't think tha its a complete dead hole because when I cracked the fuel line for the suspect cylinder, it made an audible difference.

Is that repaired with an adjustment, or will I need to pull it apart?

Thanks for the info guys, I will check the valves and timing. I am able to see a bit of a difference with the voltage adjustment seitch but not much. I think it has to do with the fact that the engines not completely happy yet. My master reconnect switch "the one by the main breaker" is stuck in...

I'm not planning on not even throwing the main breaker on it until I get the engine portion sorted out. Lol I like being alive :-)