Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Needed an impact driver a 3/4 wrench and a 2x4 to get the nut off. It had been run up onto the non-threaded portion of the bolt. The whole thing spun freely through the shunt. Nice arc welding going on with he bold head. Someone probably dropped a washer or two during assembly or...
BTW, on the connector part number You can use an A instead of the E or F version if you don't need environmental sealing. The A's use a hard blue plastic instead of the elastomer insert and are usually less than 1/2 the price. MS3106A32-1p for the cable part. There are commercial equivalents...
Has anyone thought about rewiring the batteries through the slave port so that it acts as a disconnect? Install a plug (with the pins jumpered) and the battery is connected. Remove the plug and the batts are disconnected. Security and safety all in one. Yes, this makes the slave port...
Was working in the field and the M998 suddenly wouldn't start. Made a strange noise and I saw smoke coming from the battery compartment. The bolt head that is on the ground side (not the battery ground terminal side) of the shunt had arced and is a little loose. When I rotate it slightly I...
When I got mine it was really noisy. Every time I hit a bump it sounded like the whole front end was going to rattle off. Found the jack under the front seat and removed it. Noise went away, no deadening required! But with no doors and a soft top it is pretty noisy running into town.
I took the flasher handle LED bulb, unsoldered the tip while pulling the LED assy out of the socket. Reversed the wires and reassembled. Someone on this forum explained that the tip is neg and the body is pos on the flasher arm socket.
I got around to taking the LED turn indicator bulb apart and swapped the leads so the body is + and the tip is neg. Just desolder the tip, pull the shell off and swap the leads. Because I already had the bulbs....
I've been waiting to post this until I actually do it and take pics but here's the plan. I fooled around with some resistors in parallel with the LED to increase the current draw since the LEDs were't enough to make the flasher operate. Totally going from memory but I think that 800 Ohms was...