Recent content by privatevince

don't underestimate the OM606. The stock rating is around 130-170 horses, true. but it can be tuned to around 300/350+ with the injection pump and some turbo adjustments alone. also, no need for computers and stuff. engine is capable of 600+ (there's a charger in the UK, and some specialists in...

i suppose, nowadays there's not so many parts "falling off the truck" like they did in the 70ies vietnam era... there's ITAR and the internet and everything is traceable... so some parts are readily available while others aren't. everything that's heavy has the extra cost of shipment on it...

well, please have a look at my location, then you'll see why these are $500-700 instead of $125 do you have reference numbers for the halfshafts? are they also in use on other vehicles?

you're right, that wasn't a way to start a disassembly... still, no one seems to know how to properly do it. i have a buddy who tested the process on an old rusty halfshaft. in and out without breaking the snap ring. so i can say: one of two breaks. i've got new rings on the way. as far as i...

...which brings us to the question how that whole part was assembled when there is no way to disassemble it. i didn't see it at first, but one half of it fell down while cleaning. the other half is still missing... maybe still inside the joint stuck to the grease. i'll find out when degreased...

alright, i tackled it! only way is to work on the outer joint (the one on the geared hub side). as shown in figure 1, where i used tool A in a almost straight motion parallel to the shaft to hit against the fragile but sturdy flange of the joint internals. the outmost ring seems to compress a...

sorry, but on that pictured halfshaft from HMMWV ARKANSAS (that i have too) is no inner retaining ring, that you can pull of. there is an outer ring, that keeps the whole assembly within the housing. i don't get this apart either. i would tackle on the outer joint of the halfshaft but that seems...

IN Gesendet von meinem Redmi 7A mit Tapatalk

good point there! that's exactly what i did. some duct tape between (and the inside of the firewall is painted carc) maybe putting a light rubber spacer in. i also used paint on the hole edges... but yes, that's always a factor. thought about going in zinc plated, but as everyone knows these two...

i bought this: Filterhead-Set with Filter ST 302 with 10mm Hose Fitting (Schlauchtüllenset) but i'm considering to move up to ST 354 next filter-change, which should also fit in the gap. Since you need one 10mm Inlet and one smaller 8mm Outlet i ordered a matching Set of 8mm Hose Fittings. (was...

done. it took some hours, because i fabricated 2 plates to strenghten the area and close of the 2 holes of the old filter bracket (but i'm mounting a foldable cup holder to that spot, later on). one aluminum plate is behind the filter, another stainless plate is on the inside the cab behind the...

yeah, but i would cut, grind and test fit half a day and still think i have a steel tube in there... improvement is the way to go here... already unmounted the bracket. there's more than 10 inches room in the stock location to mount the filterhead. there may be better locations (although every...

osteo16, thanks for the pictures! now it's clear, there are different versions. here's mine again. maybe they soon realised, that a inch smaller canister is easier to unmount from the vehicle (but still a pita). option a: build a spacer of exactly one inch. concern is: does it need a correct...

this information is helpful! i wonder why i'm the first guy to deal with that and writes about it... HPG lists a fuel filter spacer, NSN 5365-01-272-7504, anyone ever seen that? ...besides upgrading to a more convenient filter system, i could just build a 1.5" spacer from an exhaust tube to go...

can't find it anywhere. part number? picture? meanwhile i thought, if the "bottom" of the casing may be the reason for the scribe mark, because it is a lose item in the tube???