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Good work on getting the truck together. If I was to do it all over again, I would seriously consider going with a shorter length truck than the M36 and mount the loader on a trailer.... Then the truck wouldn't get overloaded as quickly and having the extra dual wheels on the trailer would...
I went with 10.00x20 G177's all the way round with a spare - a compromise. I also run the truck loaded with logs off road on dirt roads and have buried the truck on more than a few occasions due to soft conditions.... work fine in the mud. I wanted a commercial grade tire that would...
Well the brake pedal wasn't the culprit.
I am guessing that the remote reservoir gasket/baffle seal is the culprit. When I pulled the cap off of the reservoir I got an immediate intake of air and the rubber baffle was deformed from pressure. Hmmm... I figured using an old clutch tank...
I rebuilt the Master Cylinder at the same time last year with the Airpack. It may be possible that something got in there to clog the vent hole after the rebuild.
When I pulled the plug on the back of the large air can, where you put air tool oil, the main release of air released the brakes...
I may have a lead... I'll have to try and adjust the pushrod leading to the Master Cylinder to see if it is not allowing the MC to fully release the vent ...
"That didn't fix it either. At least with the brake adjustment all 6 wheels were heating up evenly, where prior they were heating...
Dang..... Got it installed, bled and had an immediate hard pedal... I guess something went wrong again.... everything seemed to function and move properly when in the shop, so something is stuck inside...
Yes, I do drain the airtanks regularly. I probably check once every 2-3 hours when...
Thanks for the thoughts on air dryers and filters.
It was above freezing today so I was able to check all of the lines that lead to the airpack. Nothing. Dry as a bone. Between the alcohol evaporator and the wet/dry tank combo, no moisture or gunk....
So, now I am to believe that the...
The step by step airpack rebuilds I have noodled were very useful threads and I thank you all for the time to have done it! I rebuilt my Master Cylinder and Air Pack last year and much to my chagrin, the remote brake fluid reservoir started lowering and the brakes started fading.... only...
This was a very useful thread and I thank you for the time to have done it! I rebuilt my Master Cylinder and Air Pack last year and much to my chagrin, the remote brake fluid reservoir started lowering and the brakes started fading.... only a 100 miles or so on the truck and only warming it...
OH, yes, save the hinge stuff. If you do it right, the only thing you will have to do is re-locate the sliding pin over to the new spot and make sure it lines back up with the headboard.... If not you will have to move the hinge over and re-weld it in place.... I have become a fan of cut...
I found them and digitized them for your pleasure... You will see in the 3rd one - in the back - that I used a torch to cut the body. Yes, I gave up with having to deal with all of the angles and stubbornness.... for nice strait lines and easy welds... Enjoy!!!
I used a 9" grinder with a cut off wheel to carve off 2' of deck on mine. We have the plasma cutter option to, but you will find that a nice strait ground out line is a lot easier to weld back together than having to straiten out and unscab the plasma blobs. The flatbed portion is corrugated...
Started it up to let it run for a half hour or so... drove it around a bit in the back 9 for exercise.... noted that it formed a fuel leak when I switched over to using 50/50 WMO.... and the best part - I discovered that my newly rebuilt air pack must have a brake fluid leak into it (remote...
Here's what I ended up doing for a remote... a pair of plow hydraulic quick disconnects just below the reservoir and the reservoir mounted in the engine compartment. It worked pretty slick after I rebuilt the system.... Just connect your power bleeder and purge the system. Reconnect...