Recent content by REF

That Part number TCM-2100AA or BB doesn't show up in my parts manual, You can download the parts manuals on this sight for free you are looking for manual # 9-2320-387-24P. on page 0057-00-1 it shows a nsn number and 16196390.

I know MOGMAN here on the sight has done a lot more with these TCM's Than I have maybe he will chime in on the part numbers.

I can't Verify that number, My book shows, on page 50-1 Item #6 16196390. This unit uses an EPROM that is removable through a door on the top of the TCM. You can replace the Eprom to change shift points for non turbo or turbo trucks. I understand there is a newer TCM that does not use an EPROM...

Do you have any friends with an early 90's GM truck? That TCM is a GM#16147609. If you can find an early 90's GM pickup with a 4 speed automatic you can swap TCM's with them to ensure your TCM is completely repaired.

Crank position sensor (CPS), front timing cover - drivers side - just above the oil pan. used for engine RPM to the Transmission control module (TCM) uses 2 pin connector.

My guess, Check to make sure the engine RPM senor in the timing cover is hooked up so the TCM knows that the engine has started and to turn out the light. Without engine RPM the torque converter lock up will not work but you will have all 4 gears it will just feel sluggish. The original plug in...

Loosen the hose clamp that holds the round gold colored valve ( right by your windshield washer fluid tank) Slip some rubber between it and the body saddle it sits in and see if that reduces the noise. You could also just take it loose and wrap a rag around it for testing. If the noise goes away...

Thanks for the picture, That servo heats up and expands out the front pushing the valve closed slowly. The units I have seen fail stop pushing out and just sit in the retracted position. If your servo is still expanding when on and contracting when off, (Note: that it expands slowly and closes...

I am sorry I think the confusion is what I am calling the C, What I am calling the C is the black spring steel clip that holds the servo itself. I think you were calling the C the lever coming out of the valve. So you pop the servo out of its mount push the servo forward while its still...

No the servo is bad and doesn't push out anymore to turn off the water. So pop it out of the clip, push it forward and snap the servo back into the holder in the forward position to hold the valve closed. If you decide you want heat pop the servo out of the holder pull it back and snap it back...

Yes, pop it out of the C push it forward and then snap back into the C to hold it forward.

When the servo heats up it extends out pushing the C forward to close the valve, as long as the C is pushed as far forward as it will go and you snap the servo back into the holder to hold forward pressure on the C you should be great.

Pop The servo out of the holder ( has 2 metal fingers holding it in place) push the unit forward to close the valve and snap it back into the holder in that forward position. That will hold the valve closed so you have AC . no coolant loss at all.

Allen wrenches are cheap, when one starts to strip I push the wrench in as deep as I can and tack weld the wrench to the head of the bolt, the heat of the weld tends to free up the threads. When it comes out cut the bolt off and your wrench is just a little shorter.

Could the torque converter be unlocking causing the engine to rev up / feels like a downshift ? Possible adj or replace the switch on the brake ?