Recent content by REF

Thanks for the picture, That servo heats up and expands out the front pushing the valve closed slowly. The units I have seen fail stop pushing out and just sit in the retracted position. If your servo is still expanding when on and contracting when off, (Note: that it expands slowly and closes...

I am sorry I think the confusion is what I am calling the C, What I am calling the C is the black spring steel clip that holds the servo itself. I think you were calling the C the lever coming out of the valve. So you pop the servo out of its mount push the servo forward while its still...

No the servo is bad and doesn't push out anymore to turn off the water. So pop it out of the clip, push it forward and snap the servo back into the holder in the forward position to hold the valve closed. If you decide you want heat pop the servo out of the holder pull it back and snap it back...

Yes, pop it out of the C push it forward and then snap back into the C to hold it forward.

When the servo heats up it extends out pushing the C forward to close the valve, as long as the C is pushed as far forward as it will go and you snap the servo back into the holder to hold forward pressure on the C you should be great.

Pop The servo out of the holder ( has 2 metal fingers holding it in place) push the unit forward to close the valve and snap it back into the holder in that forward position. That will hold the valve closed so you have AC . no coolant loss at all.

Allen wrenches are cheap, when one starts to strip I push the wrench in as deep as I can and tack weld the wrench to the head of the bolt, the heat of the weld tends to free up the threads. When it comes out cut the bolt off and your wrench is just a little shorter.

Could the torque converter be unlocking causing the engine to rev up / feels like a downshift ? Possible adj or replace the switch on the brake ?

On my unit the rear evap runs with the rear condensers, front evap fan runs with switch. If your rear evap is cycling on and off with the condensers chances are the compressor is also cycling. This could be low on freon or a bad high of low PSI switch.

Run it down the road with the fuel cap off in case the tank vent is plugged. If no change simply put the cap back on, if it runs fine start chasing your vent line.

you may want to look at a set of 6 point sockets for the high torque bolts, the std 12 point have a nasty habit of rounding corners off.

if your looking for plug and play, this is the ticket. https://www.camoteksystems.com/

So far So good, but time will tell.

FYI Camo, Bruce finally retired from Tharps fuel shop a couple of months ago. Shop still running with people he worked with for years but I think you mentioned him by name once so I thought I'd let you know. Randy

When you pull the glow plugs, look closely and see if any of them look wet. The black on the end of the plug should look black dry and chalky. If not you could have a leaky injector on that cylinder which will cause smoke.