Recent content by rodent

quote- A vehicle identification number, VIN, is a unique code used to identify each vehicle produced by the automotive industry. VINs were standardized in 1981 to contain 17 characters, not including the letters i, o, and q. The first few digits identify the world manufacturer. The 4th to 8th...

On the GM trucks, I always thought it was the 5th digit. 2nd and 3rd letter is for GMC or Chevrolet designation. https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lookup/1GCGD34J3GF381111 Edit- Better VIN decoder here: 5th letter shows D which means military. 2nd and 3rd letter is for GMC or Chevrolet...

No there is no indication it is military on the title or my registration. I do know the VIN references a military vehicle (5th Letter D). I may be a gray area vehicle but hard to say. I'd be curious if anyone with a M1008 or M1009 or the older Dodge M880 truck has had issues with...

Thanks for the info everyone. I asked someone at the Douglas County Motor Vehicle yesterday and she was not sure but said I will probably have issues renewing it. Its a good thing I got the 5 year collector plates. With how liberal this state has become my hope to reverse this naive decision...

Has anyone got turned away from registering or titling their military vehicle in Colorado? I'm worried I may have to sell my M1008 with the new law.

Basically the same exact thing as a civilian 1 ton Chevy 4x4 and a K5 Blazer. I did sign the petition and donated $25. Hopefully we can get this turned around. Thanks!

I assume this means ALL military vehicles including the M1008 and M1009 (Chevy Truck and Blazer). I'm glad I got the 5 year collector plates on my M1008 but now I'm considering selling it out of state unless this can get turned around.

Just wanted to update on fitting size. They are 16mm with o-ring. My speed shop had some in stock that goes to -6AN. After that I did 90 degree -6AN to barb and also added a -6AN with 1/8 NPT gauge adapter.

I was impressed with it and it was a simple install. I did have to reuse the old connectors but the wires were the same color. A better option would to re-pin new weather tight connectors for it but for now it works with the stock harness. For $80 including filter it was not a bad deal which...

Last Update... After weeks, its finally running! Let it warm up, took it for a spin and no issues. Honestly I'm still baffled on what initially caused it to stall like that. There's a couple things I suspect. -Filter housing- Needs the tap and plug mod and is leaking -Filter- Its hard to blow...

The fuel filter base is leaking on the bottom and needs the screw mod along with the o-rings replaced. Regardless of air bubbles or not, this needs to be addressed along with the old fuel lines. I'll run some pressure checks on the lines going to the tank.

Is this the one you got? Part #GF647 I was just looking at that one and it would be nice if the plugs were the same.

I get what your saying. Right now I'm seeing possible air bubbles and suspect the filter housing. I have two options. Try to fix the OEM housing or replace it with aftermarket. To me its easier to go aftermarket to rule this out of causing the problem. I also think the OEM filter base needs...

I truly appreciate your and others advice. I do believe the stock filter base needs the screw fix. I was leaning towards the spin on filter since the filters are cheaper and easier to replace but its not a must. By replacing the entire the base, I can rule it out entirely of causing air...

Update: After getting back from my trip I finally had some time to troubleshoot. I made sure the filter was fully bled. It looks like I'm getting some small air bubbles but it's hard to tell. It did finally start but only stayed running for 20 seconds them died. I think at this time it's...