Recent content by SETOYOTA

That’s a decent price

Hasn’t been back in 2 months . i Have a complete set up from windshield frame, weapons ring to the hatch. They are not cheap.

It’s all junk. send To me I can liquidate it for you

To me it does not. I will say green trucks tend to sale easier than tan and much easier than blue. This is based off my personal experience

after having the wheels for 6 years and the tires for nearly 2 I finally got around to putting them on the truck. Hopefully no leaks

Yes I’ve seen those crazy prices. $525 for a used cover. No thanks

Looking for both a m105 and m101 cover

Has anyone ever seen an MWO for the conversion? I have been to.d it exist but have never actually seen it. would have helped when I converted my 53 Studebaker

Save money until you can buy one made from real parts or at least metal. Best place to purchase is a large mv rally like Aberdeen or MVPA National . Resin guns are cheap and you get what you pay for. That’s my 2 cents

Not much at all. Mine drove like any other 5 ton. Other than it being over width.

I do use the floetrol

And as far as scratching goes yes it will scratch but much like CARC they sort of rub out. Now do I think this is the perfect substitute for real automotive paint no it is not. Wouldn’t paint a classic car with Behr but is more than fine for a restored military vehicle that never had a...

I Think the thinning is the root of your problem. Real CARC paint has a texture to it. It is not smooth. I have never thinned the paint and have had no issues. Also have never used Satin. Have heard it does not work as well. So I can say with flat not thinned I have had no issues...

I have never thinned. Use a harbor freight purple gun. Drill the hole out to 2mm. Works great. Paint is very durable. Won’t scratch.

Anyone willing to pick up and ship an army helmet from an auction house in Akron OH. They will not ship. Of course I will pay you for your time and shipping . Chuck Herbert 478-918-7490