Recent content by Sharecropper

I'll answer that question. First, I climb into my cab. Then I insert my key, and after the glow-plug warm-up period, turn that sucker clockwise until the thing cranks. Then I pull down on the shift lever to "D" and press the accelerator pedal, and Bingo! - my engine moves forward!

Hey guys, GM issued a Service Bulletin in 1988 to remove the rear proportioning valve. I removed mine when I installed rear disc brakes and raised the truck 5". Now my rear brakes work together with the front brakes perfectly. You can see the Service Bulletin here - 88-320-5 Chevrolet...

Well, I happen to like to tack on more stuff and add a bunch of clutter :ROFLMAO:

Why not leave the OEM cluster alone and simply add the other gauges as stand-alone instruments in a separate under-dash or on-dash cluster? Much more simpler and cheaper. And then you would have gauges AND idiot lights. That's what I did and I wouldn't have it any other way. Just...

Yes the front fenders have been widened on front & back. I'll post photos soon in my build thread.

One inch forward with Zero Rates.

I think my approach and departure angles are almost straight up and straight down. I'll have to get the old thing out and see.

Jake; Thanks for your very informative post. I've been fooling with timing the 6.2 for as long as it has been in existence. What I do is to time the warm engine by feel & ear as you describe, and then run it down the road and back. There is definitely a sweet spot of power and economy, which...

I only drive my truck during a clear sunny day, so I don't really need any headlights :).

I believe he may have the split intake manifold which requires two hoses from the CDR . One hose hits the intake throat on the same side as the valve and the other snakes around and hits the throat on the driver's side. The 6.5 intakes are open-plane and therefore only needs one hose. I'm...

John at Hillbilly Wizard has all that stuff. No sense in trying to reinvent the wheel. Just get good replacement hoses and slap 'em on. Hillbilly Wizard Home Page

Yeah I have. It seems to be what you need with the 0.70 final gearing of the 700R4 and 40" tires. I had them in my 1985 K30 civi truck when I ran my 11.00-20 NDT's back in the 1990's. The gears were taken out and the originals were put back in when I sold the truck and wanted to keep my 20"...

Thanks for your post and the information. However it would be helpful to post the source and part numbers for the pulley's and shims you used for those SS members who might want to duplicate your exercise. I don't need the info, as my pulleys are already aligned. But some of the junior...

They are on Ebay all the time. Try searching CUCV.

Where did you source the 700R4?