Recent content by skwishst

ok, so it was a number of issues. The exhaust valve depth was out of spec (0.2 mm), so I put in new valves for that cylinder. It then ran fine for about 10 minutes and then was running on one cylinder again. I narrowed it down to a fuel injector which I disassembled and cleaned out crap at...

ok, I did this DIY pressure test and on the left cylinder that is not firing, the crank turned to BDC (good rings) and I could see little vapor trails coming out of the exhaust port. When I place my palm over it, I could make 'fart' noises it was leaking so bad. Nothing leaking on the left...

Ok, I will try that. This is a freshly rebuilt head, but I suspect the guides are bad. I had asked the machine shop guy about it but he said it was within tolerance. I pulled the injectors and borescoped the cylinders and one was clean and dry and the other had oil puddled on top of the...

I was thinking it was running on one cylinder also, that is why i was looking at the heating elements. I pulled the valve covers and this is it cold cranking When I turn it over by hand, I hear pressure building and releasing on each cylinder and valve. If you look though, the left side...

sorry for all the post, but here is a link to the video with sound and all

ok, i made it a GIF

video. wait it failed. it looks like i can't load videos The following extensions are allowed: .zip, .txt, .pdf, .png, .jpg, .jpeg, .jpe, .gif, .stl

so the gauge is reading 23.5 volts on pole I and 7.5 volt on S (compared to G) The manometer reading was about 1.5 inch i have a video but it says there is a file size limit. Any idea of how small i need to make this?

The generator was running fine and I was able to run on the convenience plug a toaster or a space heater (not both due to the 10 amps). The oil gauge was working fine. The exhaust was running clean with a little oil coming through (as expected with new rings not set yet) I wired the unit (post...

I bought the generator with the head off so I do not know anything about before hand. I rebuilt the engine since the cylinders were pretty rusty and I took it to the machine shop. so all new bearings, rings and a freshly rebuilt head. The exhaust is strong enough to open the flap I installed...

I have added the manual oil pressure and it reads over 40 PSI The new sender does not seem to make any difference and when I turn to the prime, the oil pressure gauge actually deflects down until it pegs out and when running it does not read at all. I started to walk through the gauge testing...

I found the posts and will price out some parts. Also, I think I know the main issue. When I pulled the exhaust off, I notice one side of the manifold was all black and sooty but the other side was clean. I think one of the heating element (glow plugs) are bad and I am running on one...

ok, so if have have a bad sender, that could explain why my gauge is reading no pressure but the generator still starts.

also, i pulled off the intake hoses and exhaust to turn it over by hand and got nice resistance and clear compression. even got a puff of exhaust smoke.

ok, using TQM-9-6115-641-24, section 2-91 'Oil pressure sender' paragraph 2-91-1 'Testing', I get 250 Ohms at rest and 140 ohms running. This suggest the oil pressure sender is bad. Should the generator run with a bad oil pressure sender or should the pressure fault cause it to cut out? If it...