USMC D7G A/C compressor add-on

I need help with ideas how to add a compressor to this machine. The mount is not the problem, it's a belt and pulley issue. Someone said they had seen a D7G with a/c onboard. I can't find any information out there on this. It would be in the TM or some supplemental instance thereof. I'm sure there is a/c in some MV heavy equipment, but not a 1982 D7G. That makes sense because they didn't want another point of failure. AC systems are rarely maintained so why even go there. The engine main crank pulley doesn't support a compressor addition. On the flip-side everything is there in the cab to support the evaporator core in addition to the heater core already installed. So, all the hooks are in place other than the belt and pulley drive. The compressor mount is not the issue either. Just want to make that clear.

Problem: compressor pulley, engine drive pulley, belt & pulley size

Anyone have some idea how to engineer a solution? Here are my first thoughts. Add/create a new intermediate pulley on new mount with 1" and 1/2" V-belt groves w/tensioner. I guess I should call Sanden first to see if they make a compressor clutch with a 1" belt pulley?

Please chime in. Thanks!

jaws4518 said:

I need help with ideas how to add a compressor to this machine. The mount is not the problem, it's a belt and pulley issue. Someone said they had seen a D7G with a/c onboard. I can't find any information out there on this. It would be in the TM or some supplemental instance thereof. I'm sure there is a/c in some MV heavy equipment, but not a 1982 D7G. That makes sense because they didn't want another point of failure. AC systems are rarely maintained so why even go there. The engine main crank pulley doesn't support a compressor addition. On the flip-side everything is there in the cab to support the evaporator core in addition to the heater core already installed. So, all the hooks are in place other than the belt and pulley drive. The compressor mount is not the issue either. Just want to make that clear.

Problem: compressor pulley, engine drive pulley, belt & pulley size

Anyone have some idea how to engineer a solution? Here are my first thoughts. Add/create a new intermediate pulley on new mount with 1" and 1/2" V-belt groves w/tensioner. I guess I should call Sanden first to see if they make a compressor clutch with a 1" belt pulley?

Please chime in. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Well, I think my question has been answered my Sanden. Create a intermediate drive pulley to convert 1" to 3/8" belt drive. Maybe someone has that pulley combo made up for me. Still, your feedback would be great.

Why are you starting a new thread stay in one thread

FarmingSmallKubota said:

Why are you starting a new thread stay in one thread

Click to expand...

Which thread? Which topic?

FarmingSmallKubota said:

Why are you starting a new thread stay in one thread

Click to expand...

Are you wanting me to write my autobiography under one general thread? Awe hell!

I spent some time looking at the parts list and searching for them online. I actually found the original compressor, pulley, gear, and a few other parts that make up the compressor mount group etc... There is not enough out there to follow the original configuration. Besides, it would cost 5 or 10 times what a custom install will be. So, I will install a new 3 groove crankshaft pulley with an additional 1/2 V-belt groove.

Also, after studying the TM, this D7G's cab and dash are totally different than what is in the TM. It's like a newer designed cab. The cab air handler is totally different with dual squirrel cage fans. The air handler box is totally different. The dash is not resemble anything in the TM. This has 1982 Ford F-100 supply registers, and the control console is like a automobile's AC console. Anyway, I feel I got something special.

I soldiered the heater core tube last night. I'm going to pressure test it to see if it holds. I bet it doesn't. I think I will have to braze it due to split being right on the tin bulkhead where the 90 degree turns are on each end of the core. It's a horrible place to have a line break. I don't know if it can be salvaged. A new ching-gow heater core will work if this one doesn't repair.