MEP 803a governor question

Something you could try is to 1 by 1 remove the line and injector, reorient it so it's off to the side of the motor and crank it over and observe the fuel spray from each metering pump / injector combo. If you find 1 that doesn't spray when it should or continues to spray after the fuel solenoid is in the off position then you can at least narrow it down to the offending cyl. and investigate further.
When you say the motor won't turn off, does it continue to run at speed or does it die down but just barely continue at a low idle?
If it is staying at speed despite the FSS pushing the lever to the off position, then I would suspect a metering pump pin is not in the rack, or the rack is bent etc. If it idles low and just won't quite shut off You may need to adjust them or adjust the lever stop as Lucky described.
You also want all the metering pumps rotated counter clockwise as far as they will go until the fuel inlet hose is touching the adjacent pushrod tube.
If any pumps are spaced away from the pushrod ( too far clockwise ) that can cause that pump to not quite turn off completely.
Differences in pump orientation can also cause differences in fuel delivery and EGT's between cylinders, so we all typically put all 4 right against the pushrod tubes.

Seems to me that is inviting an oil leak from a worn through pushrod tube. I would space it away from the tube using a feeler gauge to get the exact same on each one. You only need a few thousandths clearance to prevent abrasion.

Perhaps, but it's rubber touching steel and the part that touches is where the steel nipple of the metering pump is inside the hose, so there is very little chance for any vibration or movement between them, but setting them all with a slight gap would work just fine.

I read each reply and one member touched on something. In post '13 you state the pumps are new and after a bad experience installing, you state they all worked freely. The member post that started me thinking asked if it tried to slow or just kept running as if nothing was different. So lets talk both.
I asked to pull 1 pump and see if the rack was freely moving. The video helps but the idea was to see if the rack was stuck, bound, or sticking inside. If you move the shut off back and forth you see inside if it moves freely. If this is good I'll ask if the fuel solenoid depowers and pushed the shut off to the no fuel position or does it not budge. Here is why. The solenoid is spring loaded to extend the arm out so it pushed the fuel shut off from the governor to the no fuel position. This shuts the engine off. The solenoid has a common(ground from chassis) and a hold from terminal 3 of the start switch, and a pull from the K16 that is removed after the mag pickup engages the K16 with 2.5-3.5VAC that is applied to the S14 funny looking relay that also flashed the generator field and makes AC production start. Removing 1 pump and looking or feeling if the rack is free and if the solenoid is working correctly narrows what is wrong with your no shut off condition. Let us know and oh, Pages 3-18 thru 3-25 TM 9-2815-253-24 in the forum manuals explains the pumps, the factory settings, and how to measure so you may time the pumps using the shims which are very thin but very important and uses a block enabling you to easily install pumps but again you need to remove the governor gear housing and we all tried to say how to do this without doing that. Not timed correctly causes low power in a new engine thus the gen can not hold a 100% load. Old engines where the rings are not seated yet from oil film build up, rust is another story. So let us know what happens. Cool?

You mentioned you replaced ONE pump? Did you manage to get that other one bent back straight? I would do the test Lucky is mentioning and if one is hanging up that bent one would be the one I pull.

Ok all, not sure what I did but two new pumps later it runs great. My only caveat is it shut off slightly slower than our other 803. I will get a video of the shut down and you can tell me if something is still out of whack.

Now on to my next issue. So I can’t get it to energize. When I move S5 up the light comes on but won’t say on. I took the top cover off and I have 24v at K1 x an y. I also hear K1 “click” when I hit S5. After a few minutes playing with it, all the sudden the “hot electrical smell” started. I shut it right down. The engine also was labored all the sudden. Not sure what I did. I let it cool and fired it back up, it ran for 10-15 minutes without issue. Obviously my messing with K1 and S5 did something.

I remember years ago someone giving me a TM link as to where to go from here trouble shooting it. But I can’t find it.

Any advice on where to go now appreciated.

Check the large wires going into and out of K1, especially the ones leaving K1 and going to the lugs. Where the wires bend and go around the corner of the sheet metal they will sometimes wear through the insulation and short to the chassis.
Perhaps K1 was sticking and you freed it up, only to find the output wires shorted to chassis?

Good Day: There are two issues. The sluggish shutdown, and a main contactor issue as I read your response. Lets talk one at a time.

1. slow shut down- This can be caused by several things, but mainly one injection pump is allowing fuel to get into a cylinder causing a slower shut down. This will also cause issues at high loads keeping the gen running at speed, Frequency with changing loads. Why and the fix is the issue. The pumps are correctly set in their position if you have them in a position where the fuel input is almost touching the push rod tube meaning they should be turned slightly counterclockwise and held in place with the crows foot clamp. just loosen the pump HP output and then loosen the crows foot and use a 17mm to turn the pump if required (pump tops have little notches in them making hand turning a pain)and they should all be the same. Second issue may be one of the pumps is not allowing thee fuel rack to spring back or the spring is failing inside the governor(bent rack, pump tang sluggish, governor spring). third is the stop setting that is adjustable but is plumbed as this is factory set. I have how to set this attached. This is a touchy feely thing as it is set to just before the rack is fully in the no fuel position, like 1-2 bolt flats so be careful please. Lets us know how it goes....

2. Main contactor not staying closed: You may want to look over the other attachments, as this can get hairy for some folks like me. Electrical burning smell and engine slowing concerns me. OK, here is how this thing functions: B+ is from the S1 terminal 3 applied to contacts of the K20 which should be a closed set of contacts if you have oil pressure, providing B+ to the X terminal of the K1 and you also get that on the Y terminal of the K1 and this goes to the S5 terminal 5. The S5 when you ask to close the K1 provides a chassis ground to the DS7 and thru K8 (2 sets of contacts) and thru the piggy back set of contacts in the K1 which when engaged closes those piggy back contacts holding the circuit so the K1 stays closed. You can follow a lot of this with the gen set just sitting there and a multimeter following the circuit from the K1X to the S5 and from Terminal 3 to the K1 terminal 11. S5 Terminal 6 is where the initial ground is applied to the circuit. I used to take the top off the K1 and see if main contacts required burnished and used my finger to push the contacts closed and showed Soldiers how the piggy back contacts worked and you can also use a meter to see they are working or not, which may be your issue.

You may have to check some wiring and S8 connections back to the TB3 and check if they messed with TB3 connections as folks mess with these. I found everyone connected TB3 starting from the inside with T1 to 001A thru T12 to 012A instead of using the wiring diagram (in the FORUM) causing the main gen to fight itself or S8 miswiring. No issues if they did it right. Then I found wiring an S8 seemed to be an issue so I made up the attachment. Seemed to help stupid folks like me as the manual is hard to follow a bit the first reading thru. Look over the attached and try to go thru the thing on the gen. You will have questions so ask please. I am hoping you find K1 bad contacts, bad Piggyback contacts, and a bit of water inside the K1 explaining everything. Let us know how it goes and I'll keep an eye on the email for your questions. Cool?