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And then there were 2...

Toolslinger

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Well this is following me home now...
Managed 90 miles from pickup so far. Another 96 to go to home tomorrow.
Price was good enough that I can't loose money, even if it's dead.
Thing is, it isn't dead. I'm almost positive it just has a sticking fuel rail based on a conversation with the seller.
Needs the fuse mod, and MOV, and one gauge is shot (replacement was included, but I didn't really check it was right, though I think I have what it needs anyway from the 813a carcass)2025-08-20 15.43.41.jpg
 

Toolslinger

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It will be hard to do, but this one was bought with the express purpose to make some money on resale...
It will however furnish some things I've been looking for, like the nice front landing gear to be swapped with the fixed leg on my current trailer. Possibly the extinguisher mount as well... Didn't come with any accessories for the gennie sadly.
 

Toolslinger

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I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

I should just be putting some rodent deterance on it and parking it in the woodline since I'm too busy to even think right now... But I'll probably pick away at it when I should be doing something else, just to verify what's going on.
 

Light in the Dark

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Since you have a working machine already, you can compare the feel of the linkage ( with the fuel solenoid manually pulled back ) between your good machine and #2. You will know right away if a metering pump is hung up.
Linkage movement will feel completely different.
I think the concern was that the rack might be bowed, because the metering pumps were popping out of the rack at shutdown. Could just be poor install too.
 

Toolslinger

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That was the concern. When I looked at photos of a rack, I'm not sure it isn't just stuck. I don't know that they could pop out, and then still have the unit run well after resetting them, and jiggling the rack.
Obviously that's all TBD when I pull a pump and see what I can see. Hopes are high, but I've been wrong before.
 

Toolslinger

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Otherwise the machine looks reasonable. Rust on terminal board screws. Will likely give things a drink of de-oxit...
Oil filter is real old, which ain't great, but I haven't compared the hours on it to the clock, so it might just not have been run much.
 

Toolslinger

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3 hours on the clock since the last oil change... In 2018.
'Course the clock might not work...

I was good... I did not work on the generator today. I checked that when I unhooked from the truck this morning. Rodent mesh will be Monday.
 

Toolslinger

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Well it was a kinda rainy, crappy day... Couldn't work on the decking project, so after a run to the beer barn, and a late breakfast, I decided to move the project 802a in to the barn basement. Figured at the very least I'd be able to do the rodent screens with a roof over my head.

So that went ok. I think the surge break mechanism need some PM, and I can't tell if the hydraulic breaks are really working. Not a big deal as it isn't a real heavy trailer, but it would be nice I guess if I was keeping it. The parking breaks seem to hold ok.

I did take care of the anti-mouse mesh. Having done my first unit, the process was a lot faster. And with nothing else to be done on a sketchy weather day, I figured I should pull an injection pump, and see if it was just a stuck rail.

Sadly, it isn't going to be that simple. First thing was disconnect the shut down solenoid and remove the business end. Honestly I was not expecting quite so much spring on that thing, and really wasn't expecting it to remove from the solenoid body, but that's actually nice as it's just out of the way.

Pulled the pipe plug in the end cover to see if I could see or feel anything.
Pulled the pump on the radiator side as that seemed to have better access to the hard line without pulling the roof, muffler, etc.

With that out, I could feel the rail. When the external stop/run lever is rotated, I could see the rail move a little, and after probably 15 degrees, it would release the rail. So I don't believe the straight portion of the rail is bent, and it is something further back at the end that gets acted on by the internal stop/run lever, or part of the lever assembly itself. I watched this from @CallMeColt and it is actually quite helpful to see what's supposed to happen in there. Also, when I slide the rail by hand through the pump opening, I can move it past where the pump arm would be at maximum travel, all the way back to the point it will stick. Guessing that's coming out of the guide on the far side a little, but with a jiggle it pops right back, so it seems like things are moving fairly well in there. The limit screw is loose, so nothing to prevent too much travel currently.

So I put it all back together to keep any dirt out, and pulled the batteries. This ain't going to be a quick flip, so it is going to become a winter project once my relatives go south for the winter, and I can take over their nice clean, well lit garage again... Going to have to pull the enclosure off (everybody's favorite), the fuel tank, and radiator to work on the end of the engine... If I really knew how it all worked in there, and knew exactly what was wrong, perhaps I wouldn't have to pull it all down, but probably just easier to do so, and then I get to make sure the other bits are all correct before I sell it off.

The plan is to run a power inlet to the garage, so I can run my load test heater in there during the winter, and stop sucking down propane heater fumes like last year... Be nice to exercise the keeper 802a for a reason, rather than just blowing the heat to space... I don't get past their minimum electric bill with the lights, but the heater would show up...
 
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