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MEP-803A Fuel Gauge Pinned at about 95 Hours on the Clock

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
After much searching, I found a replacement part for the AUX fuel float. This has never worked right from day one. I remember ALWAYS hearing the AUX fuel pump run when I rotate the main switch through AUX. So this part never worked from the beginning.
A new one is quite expensive.
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Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
Not yet. I have to burn off the excess fuel so it doesn't spill. Right now, just opening the fuel filler results in diesel flowing out of the filler. Have to drain about a gallon first. But I plan to play with the adjustment a bit (try turning it and raise or lower it) in case it's hung up on something. Must be they installed it improperly and it never worked.
 

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
I've siphoned some fuel off, and am trying (without success) to remove the float switch. I watched Colt's video on how to remove it, but it's not going. It' supposed to slide up 5" and then rotate clockwise, tilt to the right and rotate as being pulled out, but it's stopping at 1/4" of lift. Something's hitting the top of the tank. I can only rotate about 30°, but no matter which orientation, it's blocked from coming out by something hitting the tank ceiling. I can see it bend upward when I pull on the switch. It should come right out. Maybe somethings' seriously deformed when they assembled mine?
 

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
Finally got the float switch out of the tank.

What I found was quite shocking: some type of GLUE had dripped on the upper float prior to assembly, freezing the float in the lower position permanently.

I was able to break it free with considerable force. Then I scraped off the glue, oiled the shaft and made sure the float moved up and down smoothly. Then I verified with an ohmmeter. Float down, black wires open. Float up, black wires shorted. Checked the bottom float too. Up, shorted, down, open. Satisfied that it worked, I reassembled it.

At first I heard a fuel pump running, and thought "now what?" but I looked at the bubble in the tygon tubing from the aux tank and it was not moving. I felt the aux pump and it was not vibrating, so I realized I was hearing the main pump. And no change in sound when switching from aux to main (until now, I'd hear both pumps running in aux and the sound would change when switched to run position.

So the aux pump should work when needed.

I just have to buy a new fuel gauge as that appears to be non functional despite good resistance readings from the sender.
 

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
Where can I get a replacement rubber gasket for the fuel cap?
When the aux fuel pump didn't shut off, fuel reached the cap and spilled.
Now when I take off the cap, the rubber gasket has expanded and is disintegrating. I can't get the fuel cap to fit properly now. Need to replace that rubber gasket.
 

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
I finally bought this gauge (found it on Vehicle Controls website) and installed it, but the gauge goes all the way to the right when I turn on the ignition. I had to install a 1K resistor in series with the sender and a 160Ω resistor across the gauge to get it to read close to accurate (the tank is 3/4 full). I won't know until I run the generator and see if the fuel levels read correctly. I presently have 53Ω reading from fuel sender to ground.
 

Mweiss

Member
70
49
13
Location
New Milford, CT
I'm noticing that the original gauge reads about 11Ω across its terminals. The VDO replacement, which is specified for this sender's resistance range, reads in the hundreds of ohms.
I tried putting a 15Ω resistor across it, but the gauge still goes off the scale to the right when hooked up. Sender resistance to ground is 53Ω at this point, fuel is a bit over 3/4 tank.
The new gauge has 3 terminals. A B+ and a I or O terminal and a center terminal with no marking. In addition to the ground terminals.
I paid close to $100 with the shipping for the gauge but it seems to be too sensitive, despite it being 24V and specified for 240-33Ω sender.
Finding an exact replacement seems impossible, as these are discontinued. The broken one is sealed. I will have to cut the case open with a hacksaw and try to figure out if it can be repaired. Until I find a workaround, I can't tell how much fuel is in the generator.
 
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