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If it's the white one in Benton, it looks like it's been pretty well civilianized since it got out. Chrome front and rear bumpers, the shackles and brush guard are gone, the wacky wheels. It looks to me like the rockers may be rotted out, thats kind of a downer. It could be just the lighting...
If you're up for rebuilding your own alternator, you really ought to tackle those light sockets with the bad contacts too. Back feeding electrical currents can cause all kinds of annoying problems that could pile on each other and seem more serious than they really are.
Nice meeting you at durhhamtown this year. I was the one with the green marine m1028 fire fighting truck with the star on the side. My son had a really good time sleeping in the back and off roading.
If you are getting twenty amps at first, then it goes down,that is normal as it heats up. If you have the tm wiring diagrams, you can ground the wait light manually at i believe the blue wire at i think a five or six pin connector near the glow plug controller. The wait light has a constant12v...
Id flush the heater core first, just take off those two hoses at the block and put the hose in it both ways. There should be either a 180 or 190 thermostat in it. Someone could have removed it, who knows really.
It sounds to me like your regulator mechanism has a stripped few teeth at the very top of the travel. I bet if you could see the teeth you'd find a smooth spot right at the upper travel limit.
15641780 is the part number in the tm part diagram if that turns out to be the problem.
So upon further research, it appears that this is a normal characteristic of the detroit locker. I guess I'll just have to live with it. I did think there was something messed up. It performed admirably off road, so I didn't really know.
If you do put the light on the switch, make sure you have a two pole switch to keep the circuits completely separate. Otherwise the wait light circuit will trigger the glow plugs constantly.
I'll do a little more looking into the normal behaviour of a detroit locker I suppose. This is the first truck I've had with a locker anyway. It just made me think something was wrong when it thumps going on and off throttle.
Or tell me my backlash is bad at least.
I have been wondering for some time about the cause of my driveline lash. You can be on and off the throttle and get a driveline shock. It is most easily reproduced in first.
I thought it was my collapsed motor mounts for a while, but when they were...
You can wire the glow plug controller and the wait light using a double pole single throw switch. I installed a double pole single throw switch to replace the one that was in it on mine. Now when you hit the glow plug switch the wait light also comes on. The wait light gets a constant 12v, all...
You can use it for the intake and valve cover. If you want a gasket for the exhaust manifold, you're better off with a real gasket. That stuff isn't rated for that kind of heat.
Before you buy a new circuit, check to see if the alternator isn't in fact going bad and causing the light to come on. Check the output voltage at the battery when the light is on and it's running
Due to the non overdrive transmission without a lockup torque converter, and the 4.56 gears, the top speed is limited to 55mph stock on the m1008 and the like. The m1009 can go faster because of its different axles and gearing. You're pretty much stuck with it unless you change the transmission...
So I made a seal installer out of a piece of 1x4 maybe maple and a scrap of 2x6 with some all thread. I just put it on and tightened it down and it pulled it on in this time. Hopefully its in there good and I don't have any more leak on that side. I'm waiting on the axle shaft rtv to dry before...
Well I attempted and succeeded in putting in a rear axle hub oil seal on the1028. However I seemed to have bent the seal portion and ruined my new seal when I installed it. I put probably thirty miles on it today and came home to oil slung all over my rear rotor and up and down the inside of the...
From just casually reading on battery equalizers just now, it seems that it simply monitors the current draw on each battery, and then pulls power from the other if one is being used more. Up to the 30 amp or 60 amp limit of the equalizer itself. I'm no expert in battery equalizers, but I read...