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Something I am trying on my 6.2 motor is the 96 single thermostat cross over with the restricting thermostat. It does the same thing as the restricted fitting that is sold. Temperature testing will be coming soon on my motor stand.
I’ll test fit the 6.5 and 6.2 power steering pumps and let you know. I’m sure my 6.2 power steering pump will fit perfect with the serpentine pulley. I am thinking the 6.5 bracket might require the 6.5 power steering pump to align it. Will see in a few days. I have an overnight run at work...
I am not going to bore you guys and gals with all my failed attempts to make this dual alternator serpentine belt system work without a/c and without the vacuum pump.
So to get started here’s what I did...
I used the 6.5 1996 Tensioner with bracket and alternator and put it on the passenger...
Spent a few minutes today on the motor. I got the fluidamper back on
I made sure the aluminum crank pulley aligned up with the water pump pulley before installing the crank bolt.
I went to the loco auto parts store and could not find the 4 bolts needed for the crank pulley so I drove to Ace...
I have searched and searched and can not find anywhere where someone has done the dual alternator set up with serpentine belt without A/C and without vacuum pump.
Questions!
Can I take the pulleys off of 6.5 alternators and put them on the military dual 6.2 alternators without a tensioner...
I have not tried Ultra Black or the Right Stuff. When I pull motors apart with Ultra Black on I usually see leakage. The black stuff seems to have more elasticity to it. When Ultra Blue cures, it turns into more of a harder compound.
Also I notice it is a lot easier to remove parts off a motor...
So I took off the 1995 6.5 Single Thermostat crossover from the other spare motors and removed the old gasket with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the threads on the bypass fitting.
Then added a thin layer of RTV on both the cross over and block.
With the 6.5 cross...
While mocking up the dual thermostat crossover I noticed a few things. If I turn the inlet passenger side, it will be in the way of the throttle position sensor. Turning driver side, even with a custom bracket made, I’ll lose the high idle solenoid. Honestly, I don’t want to lose those. I live...
I have used this method of finger painting many times! It is a very thin layer of RTV and has proven time and time and again that it works! I never had any leaks... Ever.
This method really helps fill in the imperfections and pitting. Some may disapprove but IDC.
When putting on the pump I put...
Using thread lock on all the bolts except the 4 that need RTV.
After the timing plate is installed, I decided to put in the injection pump.
Don’t forget the inner plate!
Injection pump is now on! So easy!
Now let’s do some more finger painting!
Add the gasket...
Finger paint the pump and...
Test fitting the timing plate to the block. You can see a big gap between the oil pan and timing cover. I will need to put a gasket in that location.
Also there are only 4 bolts that require some rtv on the ends of them. Here is picture of 2 locations on timing cover. I put arrows on the block...
Truth be told! I only spend 15-60 minutes a day working on the motor. That is why it is taking so long with the exception of waiting on parts.
I ordered a 9 blade Duramax fan and Hayden Fan Clutch.
Getting ready for my first day off for the week tomorrow, I wire brushed the pumps bolts and put...
After work I picked up the timing cover crank seal and put it in the freezer when I got back to the house.
Then I washed the timing cover in soap and water. Mainly focusing on the seal area.
After it was cleaned, I let it sit in hot water for 10 minutes.
Using the Wife’s favorite towel as a...
Few more pics...
All cleaned up! Not bad for my first port job ehh? Yes I will be using a gasket and rtv between the pump and pump plate but no gasket for the timing cover.
And in this picture you will see the gap between the pump and the pump plate. The plate is bent a little. Because of this...