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I found some related generator overvoltage information on another site that seems relevant to my problem.
1) Over voltage on a generator is typically caused by one or a combination of the following:
-Faulty Voltage Regulator and needs to be replaced
-Frequency (hertz) of the generator is...
The problem reared its ugly head again just when I thought I was in the clear. From my research, I suspect a diode may have gone bad from not having the MOV mod protection. Since I replaced the original VR with a brand new one, I am now in the middle of pulling out each component on the...
Update: I installed the MOV and the last dozen starts have been good without stalling from the OV fault. However, the weather is slightly warmer so that may confound the results. As a backup, I purchased a new VR and plan to learn the ancient art of VR refurbishing if indeed my VR is bad...
The problem still exists. I am going to try the MOV install when it arrives, but it looks like the next step is either repair or replace the VR. It looks like original VR replacements run about $275 and aftermarkets run about $150. Anyone have experience with VR repair or replacements?
I have the QUAD winding fuse mod on my unit. That must have been done by Uncle Sam before I purchased it. I just ordered an MOV. Hopefully it will arrive before the next power outage and there isn't already damage to my voltage regulator.
On a related note, I exercised the voltage...
It generally happens within a few seconds of starting, though just today it stalled out for the overvoltage after 15 minutes of running fine. That was the first time it happened, which leads me to believe the problem is progressing. Moisture/corrosion somewhere? The voltage adjustment is...
My MEP-802A recently will stall at startup from an overvoltage fault. The voltage adjust potentiometer can raise the voltage and make it stall so that seems to be functional. Any ideas? Could this be a bad voltage regulator causing higher voltages? Bad voltage adjust potentiometer? If I...
Problem solved. In case this helps anyone else, there was a metal shunt / clip that connects posts 1 and 2 of Terminal Block 5 that came out while I was trouble shooting the coolant gauge. I had already pried the top cover off and spent a fair amount of time troubleshooting before I found the...
All the relays tested good. There is power at terminal 3 of the master switch when I checked it through the diagnostic port. I checked diode cr3 and the AC circuit interrupter switch, both good. What doesn't appear good it the time meter. I could not get 24V to the time meter. Given where...
I have a good 24V in most of the diagnostic ports except the circuit interrupter coil (V), which looks closely related to the fuel pump in the electrical schematic. Do you know where exactly the CR5 diode is located?
Thanks DieselAddict, the diagnostics and schematics information was very useful. There are only 2 millivolts between D and K in the diagnostics port. I will go through all the connections with a fine tooth comb. Would the fact the circuit was not completely open at 0V make you suspect it is a...
I checked the low fuel shutoff functionality, it lit up and shut down the engine when the system worked. I'll give the battle short a try and top off the tank. It is odd that the engine cranks with the main switch, but will not prime. I think the next steps will be to check the master switch...
The emergency stop was not pushed and the DC breaker is OK. It fired right up the day it came from GL. It was frustrating that it stopped working one day later. As a quick fix, I suppose I could hot wire the fuel pump while I troubleshoot.
I had the engine running for a solid hour, generating power. The next day, no power to the main fuel pump when I turn the master switch to prime. I confirmed there is no power going to the pump when the switch is on run/prime. I also checked the diode CR1 as another member suggested, but it...