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They were exact replacement lay overs. Not really stickers, they made the ID tags look brand new but I don't remember who had them.

Yes sir!

VDO A2C60000963 Marpac 7-2037 isspro r8750 These are the ones that I have purchased. I think 2 of them say 12v but it only deals with the bulb for illumination. They all use the stock sender and the Dayton gauge Csheath recommended should use the stock sender.

Yes, search ebay for 100-240 temperatur gauge. Isspro and VDO have 2 models that I've used. I used both with good results. Usually marine gauges work perfect.

Good point Guy, yes don't adjust anything until you have it up and running correctly. That was for reference only because I see on other post you have a couple 803a units.

Ok, more than likely S1 is not the problem. The fuel cutoff solenoid does not retract until you go to start, then it retracts and the starter engages. Are you 100% sure the batteries are good. I 've had a couple with similar problem and figured out it was a dead cell in a battery. The initial...

Not shown in the picture you have but the plug I'm referring to is on the front cover. It will be a star shaped plug behind the radiator hose. The 802a has a plug that a 3/8 square socket will fit. It will be approximately in line with the fuel cut off solenoid at the front of the motor. Just...

You could try taking the plug out for the governor adjustment and soaking everything inside with WD-40.

Yes, keep the contactors inside. I've got 3 of the sync units and right now they are just taking up room. But I did keep them for the contactors, just in case.

Ahh unfortunately you'll need to take the front cover off to gain access to the fuel rack and governor adjustment. Sounds like rust has seized up the springs and fuel rack.

I'm know you know this but I'm going to say it anyway. The frequency (throttle) knob is locked into place with the push button and also with the lock mounted behind the knob. Can you turn the knob that is mounted behind the push button, that is mounted to the wall of the generator (if that makes...

You can't sync the 803a models. Are you referring to the distribution box that can switch between generators (i.e. on the power plant trailer models)? I'm confused.

Usually S1 is the problem. Which version of the switch do you have? There were 3 different styles, 2 that included a blue plastic housing and 1 (the best) that is round and all metal.

More than likely the alternator. The rectifiers can short and cause the batteries to drain fast.

We need a pic, a 005 is a little big to put on a 105 trailer. It would be very top heavy.

I didn't mean that it was difficult to find on this site, I meant fleabay. LOL!

Here you go. I know its against the rules but its very difficult to find on the site. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TEMPERATURE-ENGINE-SWITCH-MEP-802A-PN-127338/110865984841?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Interesting, I agree it sounds like S1 switch since you can move it around in different directions to get it to function. Also since it will change the light output of the fault indicators. I have several new style (metal) S1 switches if you need one. They are expensive ($113+shipping), thats...

Most of the time they do that to keep track of the wires. Guy is right, connected to the frequency transducer so that would be the frequency meter. The gauge itself fails before the transducer on the 800 series.

Check your batteries first. Even if it cranks from the dead crank it could be the batteries, with the main switch your activating fuel pump, fuel solenoid, and those draw a lot of amperage.