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I pulled the rotor out and set it up on the lathe between centers to measure runout. Axial runout on the adapter plate was .006", measure mid-radius. Since the adapter is sheet metal and not necessarily true, I removed it and the support bearing and remeasured axial runout on the rotor's...

Went ahead and disassembled the genhead in place by removing the rear sheetmetal and sliding the housing and stator out the back after supporting the engine. The rotor looked visibly off center when observing the gaps between rotor poles and the stator laminations. I placed a dial...

I like where this is going. Great project! I was looking at my 802 the other night and thinking about something similar.

Have you verified K16 is pulling in? They make a pretty good click when energized. Also, pull the relay and manually apply power to the coil, then verify 7 and 9 are connecting. Another thing to do is manually jumper 7 to 9. 9 should only be energized when K2 is pulled in. Then check the...

Have you checked for continuity between the pin receptacle on the relay base and the terminal 7 connection? Also check the same thing on terminal 9. Having two bad relays is not impossible, but the relay base is part of the circuit chain and easy to validate.

At this point, it seems like I need to separate the engine and genhead to verify proper assembly and/rotate their relative positions. For those that have done this, is it possible to separate the two in the enclosure just enough to unbolt the genhead from the flywheel and re-index them to each...

Looking at the wear pattern in the skid base and broken weld in the left battery area, this unit has been shaking hard for a long time.

Well, no luck here. The paint shaker shows 88-21070-1 isolators, which crossreference correctly with-24P part number (88-21070-3) My 803a uses 88-21070-2 isolators. The -24P calls out 88-21070-4, which I can't cross-reference, but the convention follows similar to the 802 isolators.

It reads 12.7v and 14.8v when charging? Yes, that is possible if the batteries are out of balance. (Different states of charge) It's also potentially damaging to the batteries because the alternator's regulator only understands that it needs to output 28.8V, and if one batt has a low state of...

Just FYI, it's not possible to discharge only one battery because they are wired in series. A parasitic drain will draw from both batteries. If one battery is discharging, but not the other, it's due to self-discharge of that battery, meaning the battery is bad, not the alternator.

Have you measured output with a quality amp clamp? I have cycled through 4 current meters and none of them are accurate. All read lower than actual. What happens with the engine when you max out at 60%? Does it bog down and throw black smoke? Does the overload fault trip?

I I make the MOV mod as soon as I get a unit. Very cheap protection for an expensive regulator. Congrats on your purchase. If you had the overload fault trip prematurely, you'll want to buy a can of Deoxit and spray out the S8 and S6 switches.

Agreed. Entire spare generators, fueled up and ready to run, are the way to go.

That's an understatement. It makes my other 802a look like an 803a. I will try swapping isolatators from another 802 to start with and hope that is the issue, otherwise it is likely the genhead and engine need to be separated.

This is dimensionally similar to the factory door seals. One roll does most of a machine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SS0RTA8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

After starting reassembling and starting this unit up, I through a load on it. The unit was very shaky for a 802a, even after I tighten some loose isolator bolts. The unit could pull 6000 watts and seemed to be running fine, but anything over 3000 watts and the overload fault would trip after...

This month I dug back into this unit. Many of the gauges were non-functional and even since it ran last, the AC voltmeter quit working. I have swapped nearly every gauge off my parts donor unit to make this one functional. The oil pressure gauge off the donor was dead too, so I bought a new...

Thanks Light, I didn't know the Mil-spec. everyspec.com has a great library of Mil-specs if you want to read more: http://everyspec.com/MIL-STD/MIL-STD-2000-2999/MIL-STD-2169C_NOTICE-1_56140/

Yes. Disclaimer, I didn't read this whole document, but it reads like a requirements outline for the TQGs and lists resistant to High Altitude Electromagnetic Pulse (HAEMP) https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/pdfs/ADA378124.pdf Being familiar with EMI testing, I can see how the construction of the 802...

Yes, that one is similar. I used the CS6369 from Marinco Until recently, I wasn't aware there was a version with and w/o the center spike. The two are dimensionally the same otherwise. The CS stands for California Standard, so guessing they slapped an extra requirement on an existing...