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You brought up a 7 yr old thread to complain about the phrasing on a warning placard ? :rolleyes:

So, I did a ghetto fix.... So, I didn't know why I was losing prime after sitting overnight.. turns out it's the throttle shaft seal .... and I toasted a starter after trying to crank so long. I don't have the time/money to replace the IP right now, and there's no point in doing 80% of the...

Ohhh.. duh....Yeah, I'm thinking you're comparing an equipped M1031 with an equipped M1010. I think you're right... I think it's the SECM box (without gen/components) that weighs around 800, and the M1010 box was around 1800 or so.. I know I did the math in another thread.... hah Edit: Found...

That curb weight for the 1031 is just for the cab/chassis, not including the SECM box, gen, compressor, welder, etc.

It's steel frame with aluminum skin... Around 800lbs IIRC

There already is that letter, I know I've posted it numerous times, as have others. NHTSA basically said 'it's exempt, therefore complies'.

Lots of us are used to working on our own stuff, but not all of us are wise in the ways of tools, shop equipment, tips/tricks, etc. Maintenance is a huge part of the hobby, heh, and I think a section where we can talk about what tools we use, or answer questions that others have about the best...

I guess that answers that question. It'd probably be about 3k lbs total, when finished.. maybe 4 tops... so should be just fine then. I might have some stops welded front/rear to stop any potential movement going uphill or emergency braking.

OK, so, not sure if you noticed, but on quite a bit of equipment, including the deuces and 5 tons with beds and comm/electrical boxes, there's a strip of wood, usually ~1/2-3/4" thick, that is put between the frame rail, and the frame of the box/bed. I've been told a couple things, maybe some...

You found red flush mount 40W LEDs?

Mounted way too high to be fog lights.

A couple things.. 1. That was already removed, so of course it's easy. You have to remove the intake in order to get to it when it's still on truck. 2. If the throttle shaft O-ring is bad, then the internals of the pump are probably not that far away from being toast as well, being that it's...

Found out my hard start issue wasn't because of the injector lines like I thought.. It's pissing fuel out of the side of the IP throttle shaft.... a known issue... about 2 drops a second...

Today I replaced a leaking injector, replaced a return line just in case, and adjusted the VRV so now my shifts are silky smooth at ~15 and ~30....

All too familiar with USAMRIID ....

I'm a cheap bastard. I went with some nanking 887's I think they're called.. off road mud terrains.... and they were only ~130 a piece in 285/75/16...

Here's what I got.... Not available right now, but will probably be back in stock soon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C8720S8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Older systems not designed for it can cause issues re: rubber seals/lines... DOT5 is hydrophobic, meaning it doesn't absorb water. So, any water, condensation, etc that makes it into the braking system, has no way out, and will generally pool at the lowest point. DOT3 is hydroscopic, and will...

DOT3 if you're going to be using it infrequently and are going to change/flush it every year. DOT5 if it's a daily driver or you want less maintenance. Just IMO.. I intend on keeping it DOT5.... It usually runs around $60-70/gallon.. I got 6, 11ish oz bottles for ~$35 on Amazon not that long ago...

I used to live in Fredneck... and Smithsburg... I know all about the area.. I do miss it dearly... east coast mountains are entirely different from west coast mountains.... Kinda hard to articulate but they're different.