Search results

In theory there shouldn't be draw on the batteries when parked...black out switch off...but there are times when the alternator likes to do crazy stuff and pull a small draw and take out the batteries over a short period of time. You can pull the cables off but lead acid batteries discharge...

Yes it is and it does work and gives you a larger contact surface...but it can still weld...18 etc volts vs 24-29 volts is a massive jump in amps. The fix is keep your batteries charged...I run stock relay on all mine but also run the 6tm battery with a solar maintainer on the hood. I don't...

Yup...2 big wires with the 2 little ones. Just a point. Those melt as well if you're batteries are low in charge. Amps go up when volts drop and welding occurs. My 1009 had that with old batteries and I had to snap the wire off the 24 volt side to get the starter to stop. I put good batteries in...

No there's no filter in them stock at all but there's a bunch out there to fit a 3/8 hose. The booster has a check valve that's almost a pencil point that if it gets stuck can either give all the pressure or take it away. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I'd test the 2 wire plug at the field before I'd jump wires to the battery. See what's there. That power steering is odd. Sounds like the hydro boost is bleeding off all the pressure. You put a filter on the return when you replaced everything? Could have some dirt in the check valve. I'd pop...

The relay is right above the diag plug...very easy to get to. The only metal one under there. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

You can kill the ground and bury a switch under the dash...I don't like switches on power sides...to much possibility of failure. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yes you can...it's easier to kill the ground to the relay under the dash...the 12 volt side ground. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

That's great news that you got it all together! One thing I forgot is now that you have a fresh tank you might want to change the box fuel filter now too. Have it all in good shape at one time. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

There needs to be a solid ground on the motor. You can run a separate wire to ground or clean off the mounting points of paint and such. I do a wire up to the bus bar right above it off a mounting bolt for the motor. It needs a decent sized wire since it can pull 20 amps on high which will...

Oooppps!! I missed it had a connection on the end! Yeah mine have that too and are not hooked to anything. The other blue wire coming out of the box is the starter relay wire that kicks the starter on. 2 of mine had that clipped and had a ford starter relay botched in them. I removed all that...

I think that's the starter wire. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I think there's a pair on marketplace by me if I remember right. Pop your search south a touch and see if they're still there. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I have the original stuff but threw a small 4 ton bottle jack in there too with a 1/4 inch chunk of steel to put under it. 1 is none 2 is one I guess. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Stock there's like roofing tar paper between the straps and tank. That stuff can fall apart when you take the old tank out. Might need some. I've used a inner tube as well. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Just imagine trying to line up both brackets to the frame that have 4 bolts each to go in. With the straps tight it's extremely difficult to do that. So I leave them loose and move them around until all 8 bolts are in the tighten everything down. Makes it a 5 minute deal. I don't bother with a...

I'm fortunate as my local advance stocks the tank...with the discounts it is right at 80$. It's not a hard job since it's empty. One thing I suggest when you do go to bolt the mount brackets on is leave them loose so you can get the frame bolt holes to line up the tighten the tank staps down for...

I did that to one of mine as well. A small transfer pump fills up the passenger side pretty quick. I popped the roll over valve off the passenger side since I didn't want that blocking fuel if it ever got stuck. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The third is for a civi that has a charcoal canister. 2 is all you really need. Just cap it off. That one's been changed at some point. Not a big deal at all. I use both lines that go all the way into the tank...the third one might come with a roll over valve in it or it's short...I cap that...

Not at all. The 4th outlet is for a diesel outlet that isn't for the engine like a heater. Not needed unless you want that. I've had to replace all the straps on the tanks I've done so it's nice to hear you won't have to! My one truck shows full until it hits 10 gallons then goes down from...