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I've been fighting some pinion seal leaks on the front pinion seal of the middle axle on my M923A2 truck, and am at the point where I'd like to make sure I'm not missing something obvious. My truck was a ~2011 rebuild at Kansas. When I got it, there was a very slow leak at the front pinion seal...

I realize that I have no dog in this fight (and that this derails this thread a bit further off topic), and I mean no disrespect to anyone involved, but WillWagner is correct in his statement that modern diesels dose hydrocarbons into the exhaust stream for DPF regeneration purposes. In...

I did think that this was a Steel Soldiers Haspin shirt, but I'm still in for a Mowron shirt instead. I did bring a mower to the Spring rally last year...

I'd like a Large shirt if it's not too late. Thanks!

If you pull the drive flanges off the front axle (8 bolts each drive flange) and either leave the air shift transfer case disengaged (or pull the front driveshaft if it is a sprag transfer case) then the axle shafts won't be spinning. As long as you can still turn the steering wheel...

That is the 120 psi pressure transducer for the CTIS. If it never sees 120 psi and closes, the CTIS will think the air pressure is low and will just blink highway mode.

It's finally started to get warm here, so I've been able to get back to work on the truck. I finally finished up the wiring on the light bar / A/C unit wind deflector unit that I made and partially installed last Fall. You can never have too much light, right? I had the overhead console and new...

That looks a lot like liner cavitation to me. It's caused by incorrect coolant chemistry. Once it eats through into the cylinder from the coolant side, it leaks coolant into the cylinder and / or oil pan depending on where the piston is in relation to the leak. It also interferes with the liner...

It could be a boost leak. It won't build enough boost revving it out of gear in order to show up. Check the rubber hose of the cross over tube after the turbo, and make sure the clamps are tight.

I do some volunteer work with a Christian camp near where I live, and they have asked me to assist with getting their backup generator operational. It is an MEP-006A unit, obtained through a FEMA grant. They had it installed a few years ago and the power company connected it by a manual transfer...

I have never replaced mine. I was just trying to help out Ford Mechanic. The part number for the stainless bolts is 3929537.

The ones on my engine are marked 8.8. With that being said, the Cummins part number listed for them is obsolete and they were replaced by a stainless bolt of the same size.

When the shutterstat is closed, the input hole is closed off but the output vents to the atmosphere so the fan clutch will release. If you plumb the hoses backwards, it will leak air constantly when it is closed, and it won't release the fan clutch properly after it actuates.

This means you need to have the #1 and #6 cylinders of the engine at top dead center (does not matter compression stroke vs. overlap) when you install the compressor with the marks lined up as WillWagner said. You can use a barring device and rotate the engine until the timing pin (behind the...

It's been a while since I posted anything so I thought I'd share a few updates. I got uncomfortable with the tires last Fall when I found some dry rot cracking near the edges of the tread, so this Spring I changed the tires out for Michelin 395's that I had (on MRAP wheels). Of course that...

I don't know if my truck (1990 BMY M923A2) has something different about its tank than yours, but when I had it off the truck last weekend I could not see any baffles in it. There did not appear to be any coating (intentional or otherwise) on the inside, either. The drain boss on the bottom...

I just did it over the last few weeks. 395/85R20's removed from MRAP wheels replaced the 14R20's that were on it. I did it one at a time with basic tools and the 1 inch impact wrench I ended up getting when my 1/2 inch would not budge the wheel half nuts. It took forever but was not really all...

Here's where I tapped into mine. I drilled a 1/8" NPT hole into the plug while it was out on the workbench, and then reinstalled into the engine. It was easier than making a mount for the gage!

Tonight I did more troubleshooting on my truck and confirmed that the 3 wire sensor is indeed the CTIS pressure switch. Apparently some trucks have 2 wire sensors and some have 3. The Dana .pdf I was looking at last night didn't have any troubleshooting information in it, but I found one today...

Thanks, guys. I'll try jumping the A and B terminals tonight and hopefully report back with success.