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Yes check the 16ga fusible link on the bus bar next to the fuel filter.

It's not the relay itself I'm talking about. It's the nut on top of the relay coming in contact with something. Check its vicinity for something that could come in contact with that nut.

Knowing that guy, he would charge you $4k for the parts truck not including axels.

Short at the starter relay can also cause this smoke. If the dog head modification was done the nuts on top of that relay can easily be short circuited cause this problem

I got under the truck today and found the rear ujoint to be bad. It wasn't loose so I missed it before. I replaced the trouble maker and the truck drives great again. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Yes I have recently torqued the u bolts but I will check them again. At first glance everything looks fine and the u bolts seem fine too.

Hi I was driving my 1009 today when a nice lady cut me off requiring me to lock em up for a very short moment. After the braking incident I'm getting lots of driveline vibrations. This truck is lifted 4" and the vibrations were not present until this braking incident. Any thoughts or experience?

My m1009 with 4'' lift and stock driveline also makes a noise when I'm at top gear with no load. Just like you described it except it isn't a vibration, its just a noise. Sorry I can't offer anything besides that. ;)

Genesis has the radiators back in stock and I ordered one and got it yesterday. They are made by Silla and they seem to be pretty nice. The material is a little thin but I've never owned an aluminum radiator before so I have no frame of reference. It is a direct fit but I had to trim the...

I agree it sounds like bad batteries or a bad connection. I don't mean to be condescending but you know what "load" testing means right? It is super imperative that the batteries are load tested and not just tested with the multi-meter. I had a 9 month old interstate battery that showed 12.8V...

Do you have any other lift?

Think the drive shaft will be ok with the 1" zero rate at factory position? On top of the 4" lift springs?

My m1009 has a 4" lift in the front and a 4" shackle flip in the rear but the front sits noticeably lower than the rear. I also think it could benefit from moving the axel forward 1" so the tires don't rub as much. Has anyone added the zero rates up front and moved the axel forward on a m1009...

Those carriage bolts are bolted directly to the frame on these trucks. You can see in these pics that a big portion of the winch mount is welded right to the front of those bolts but the bumper can still be removed.

I did a pull with it on Saturday, I hooked it up to a tree at the same height as the bumper and my brother stood on the brakes while I controlled the winch. The pull actually pulled the truck downward so there was quite a bit of drag. The bumper and guard flexed about 2 inches during the height...

I used a 10k smittybilt I bought on fleabay for $450. Seems like a good price for a "better than harbor freight" winch.

Well the thought is that the majority of the strength comes from the two points that are attached directly to the frame. I marked them in blue here in this pic. Then the rest of the force is spread throughout the brush guard frame. There is a minor question as to lateral strength but we feel...

My buddy quoted me prices to sell it but I don't know if I'm allowed to say that here. I'm not even sure I"m allowed to say that you can PM me for that info. I'll let the guards chime in and let me know.

Primer. Paint. Winch installed!!

Next step was to weld it up. Flat bar: Welding complete: