Search results

If it's inside the starter the permanent magnets in the stator will have a hold of it. You're going to need to open it. I don't know your starter specifically but the opposite drive end cover should come off without much fuss as it does on most electric motors. You may want to remove the brushes...

You need to look at the API rating on the oil. I run Chevron Delo 400 SDE in my fleet. It's an API SN. The zinc content is half of what it was when it was an SL. The newer Chevron formulations are replacing zinc with Boron and Calcium. I think you'll find the same is true for other oil blenders...

When I say clog I'm talking jets in the carburetor.

Are the pics of the old mounts with the extra weight? They seem to be handling it fine. Adding extra joints of the same compression rate puts them all at very high elongation. Maybe you should look for a stiffer material instead?

My dad gets this on his boat. He doesn't take it out very often but starts it and idles it regularly. The idle circuits stay clean and work fine but once the review to give it some gas the secondaries don't flow fuel because the jets are clogged. No smoke and no power means you've got no fuel...

It's still in production today.... The same project manager that developed the EMD engines went on to develop the 71 series Detroit Diesel. Everything they did is present in the most modern engines. Otherwise, modern oils mean fewer deposits but if you've got them it's best to keep them where...

EMD, large railroad engine with design dating back to 1938, specifically warns against flushing engines. The sludge deposits in places where it does not harm and flushing can dislodge the sludge so it can do harm.

The purpose of torquing the nut is simply to squeeze the grease out and ensure the bearing is metal to metal. Then, you back it off to the next available notch. Any amount of movement is clearance added and that is sufficient. It really doesn't matter what you torque it to. Tapered roller...

Keep in mind that "lubricity" failures are specific to certain pumps. The Bosch common rail pumps are experiencing failures while the Denso pumps are not. The problem is not the fuel, it's the pump.

High temp greases cause bearings to run hotter. It's literally in the name. Really, they have higher viscosity base oils which cause more heat.

Nothing. I have 52 engines accumulating 2500 hours a year each and we are not experiencing any failures with regards to fuel lubricity. We run R99 which is a hydrotreated vegetable oil fuel. I had low hour 2 injection pump failures under warranty on MTU 4000 engines, 2 injection pump failures on...

More grease equals more heat. Those temperatures would not cause me any concern. To alleviate yours, are the brakes running hotter on one side? Hot brakes can heat up a hub. If you do repack your bearings, polyurea greases are best. Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty is a polyurea and available at most...

A transformer from the most expensive place to buy transformers from is $214. https://www.mcmaster.com/product/70525K81 Motors with 9 leads or more can be rewired to run on 208-240 or 440-480 volt ranges. Can you rewire your motors? You can use a much smaller transformer to boost the voltage...

I tried to rebuild my own injection pump once. The engine ran exactly like that afterwards. It ran fine before, hard to start due to throttle shaft leaking. It ran fine again with a different pump.

If you want the material least likely to damage the shaft, may I introduce you to the graphite metalizing corporation? https://www.graphalloy.com/

If you cut the front fender just below the marker light and offset the front axle 1.5 inches forward it can sit on 37's without lifting.

The horsepower isn't free to run the electric fans, either. You're just losing in the alternators + their inefficiency. That radiator looks nice. What is it?

The fan clutch shouldn't have any effect on higher speed operation. If you're overheating at high speed I'd be looking at the condition of the fins, clogged tubes. If the radiator checks out, it's 6.2, you may be getting air in the cooling system through a crack somewhere or a bad head gasket.

If it's just a washer, if you can provide dimensions maybe someone can make some. How much are you willing to spend? $56 gets you a 6x6x1/8 Viton sheet. They'll last forever

The stock radiator was the best. You can't get those. I tried the aftermarket brass units, they're junk. Half the weight of stock and they pop randomly. I have an aftermarket aluminum/plastic unit and it's been fine but that's all I can say about it. There are some welded aluminum units out...